There are far more ways to repot cymbidiums than there are to skin the proverbial cat. Not only that, but the orchids usually make it through the surgery alive, unlike the cat! My method won’t please everyone, but it works well enough to give me enough flowering plants for my display at the show.
Potting-on, Repotting and Division. Potting-on means taking an orchid and its potting mix out of its pot, moving them to a bigger pot, and then filling the empty space with new mix. Because this procedure doesn’t hurt the orchid too much, it can be done at any time of the year. But I don’t think you should pot-on if the original mix is more than 18 months old, unless you plan to repot within the next year. If you wait too long to repot, the older mix in the middle of the pot will start to “break down,” creating a mass of rotting roots that slowly spreads outward.
Repotting means removing all the old mix from the orchid’s roots and replacing it with fresh mix. At the same time it is advisable to remove most or all of any leafless backbulbs present. These backbulbs hold the plant’s oldest roots, so getting rid of them reduces the chance that they will rot. If there is a group of backbulbs in the middle of the plant, it will probably need to be split into two or more pieces. Actually, it may fall apart when the backbulbs are removed. If not, you will have to use a clean carving knife to cut the rhizome that connects the growths or your bare hands to pull the pieces apart. I like the second method better because the carving knife is never the same after being cleaned a few times over a gas flame. Neither are my hands, so I settle for a good wash with soap and hot water.
Hygiene. Sterilizing orchid tools is mostly done to make it less likely that a virus will be spread from one plant to another. This happens through plant sap, so if the first plant that is repotted has a virus, it can spread to all the plants that are handled after that. Dealing with each plant as if it has a virus is the best way to avoid this happening. Sterilise all tools and wash your hands thoroughly after each plant is repotted.
Keep old soil from one plant away from new plants, and make sure that any old pots you use again are completely clean and germ-free. Some growers use a potting bench covered with multiple layers of newspaper. Once they’re done repotting each plant, they throw away any old or new mix that falls apart, along with any root fragments and other plant matter.
When to Repot. I’ve learned that I should repot every other year instead of every third. After three years, the roots are so tightly packed together that it’s hard to take the plant out of the pot without breaking it. Sometimes I have to cut the pot open to get the plant out. Also, most bark-based potting mixes remain in satisfactory condition for two years but not for three. In the third year, they start to break down into smaller pieces, which stops the free drainage that cymbidiums and most other orchids need for healthy roots.
Traditionally, cymbidiums are repotted in late spring, after the flowering season is over. I prefer to stick with tradition and repot those plants that need it in October. It’s best to wait until there is no chance of cold weather, because cold, wet weather is hard on a plant that has just been moved, unless it can be put somewhere dry and comfortable.
In recent years some cymbidium growers have taken to repotting their plants in March. They say this is when their plants are growing the fastest, so it is best for them to handle the shock of being moved to a new pot. They also think that the flowering spikes have already formed, so repotting can’t stop the flowering process. In late spring, when many flower spikes are just about to start, however, it might. Professional cymbidium growers repot their plants all year (except for the middle of winter), but only when they have too many plants to do it in October or November or March.
What Potting Mix? Various materials have been used in orchid potting mixes over the years. They used to use tan bark and osmunda fiber, but now people prefer red gum chips and pine bark, with or without extras. Many gardeners use pine bark that has been aged to make it more water-absorbent and free of natural plant toxins. Debco and Propine are two of the main companies that sell this bark. Some gardeners like to use fine grade bark (5–10 mm pieces), especially for small plants, while others like to use coarser grades (10–20 mm pieces).
The last few years, I’ve used an equal amount of these two types of bark and then added one or more of a number of other things, depending on what was available at the time. These extra ingredients include Corangamite shells (shell grit), river pebbles, tree fern fronds, rice hulls and peanut shells. Immediately prior to use I also add dolomite lime, Hoof-and-Horn® fertiliser and Nutricote® slow-release fertiliser. The rationale behind this complex formulation is that it provides a long-lasting, free-draining.
mix that helps good mycorrhizal fungi grow and gives the orchid a steady supply of nutrients I also add Hoof-and-Horn® and Nutricote® fertilizer to the tops of the pots in October and March. I don’t use liquid fertilizers very often, though.
For new growers, please don’t think that you need to use such a complicated mix to get good results. Many gardeners have better luck than I do with a simple all-bark potting mix, but they probably spend more time and effort choosing which liquid fertilizers to use and how often to apply them.
How to Repot. I find it easier to take the plant out of its pot and clean the roots of the old potting mix when the plant is neither very wet nor very dry. To untangle the roots it is easier to begin at the bottom and work upwards. Sometimes, especially if the plant hasn’t been repotted in a long time, the roots are so tangled that you have to use a carving knife to cut two inches off the bottom of the root ball to get them to separate. Once I’ve done that, I take out any backbulbs and divide the plant if needed, as explained above. I divide most plants that will not fit comfortably in a 250 mmpot allowing some room for growth. Plants in 300 mm pots are too heavy to move and repot; they belong to sumo wrestlers! Finally, I use sterile scissors or my hands to cut off any soft or dark brown old roots.
Before I put the plant in a new pot, I put an inch of potting mix in it so that the roots don’t stick out of the drainage holes. With one hand, I hold the plant’s leaves in place, and the other, I add new soil to the pot. Some growers set the plant up so that the bulbs are just above the last layer of mix, but I bury the bottom quarter of the pseudobulbs because Julian Coker told me to. Moving the mix around in the pot by shaking it will fill in any gaps between the roots.
Finally, I add Hoof-and-Horn® and Nutricote® fertilizers on top (about two teaspoons of each for a 200mm pot) and shake the pot to mix them in. The last step is to move the pot to a shady, sheltered location and to water it. Coddle the plant for a few weeks before moving it back to its usual sunnier location.
Cymbidium orchids are stunning plants that produce elegant sprays of flowers in the spring. Choosing the right pot for your cymbidium orchid is important to keep the roots healthy. I’ve grown cymbidiums for years and tested out different pots. Here are my top recommendations for the best pots for cymbidium orchids.
1. Clay Pots
Clay pots are my number one choice for cymbidium orchids. The porous terra cotta allows excess moisture to evaporate from the potting mix. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot. Clay pots come in many sizes and shapes to fit your plant. Just be sure the pot has drainage holes.
2. Slotted Orchid Pots
Slotted orchid pots have vertical slits along the sides of the pot This increases air circulation around the roots The slits also provide extra drainage. Slotted plastic orchid pots are affordable and lightweight. Make sure to use an orchid potting mix that won’t wash out through the slots.
3. Plastic Pots
Standard plastic pots work well for cymbidiums, Opt for pots marketed for orchids that have plenty of drainage holes, Plastic orchid pots are inexpensive and easy to find Just watch that water doesn’t pool in the bottom of the pot Add pebbles or stones to improve drainage,
4. Ceramic Orchid Pots
Orchid pots made from ceramic offer benefits similar to terra cotta but with more decorative shapes and patterns. The porous material helps moisture evaporate from the soil. Ceramic orchid pots come in various sizes. Make sure the pot is large enough for the cymbidium’s root system.
5. Wood Orchid Baskets
For a unique look, plant your cymbidium in a wood orchid basket. The slatted wood construction provides excellent airflow to the roots. The gaps between the wood slats allow water to drain freely. Lined with moss inside, orchid baskets create a beautiful way to display cymbidiums.
Best Pots for Growing Orchids – Do You Need Special Orchid Pots?
FAQ
What is the best medium for cymbidium orchids?
Do orchids prefer tall or wide pots?
What month do you repot cymbidium orchids?
Do cymbidium orchids like sun or shade?
What is the best potting medium for cymbidium orchids?
The best potting medium for Cymbidiums will depend on how much your water, what your climate is like, how old the plant is, and other variables. Cymbidium orchids have finer roots than most orchids it’s size. For this reason, they prefer to be potted in a medium that simulates soil.
Can cymbidium orchids grow in pots?
Many of the new hybrid Cymbidium Orchids are small enough to grow in 5”-6” pots that easily fit on a windowsill. Orchids like to be pot- bound so don’t rush to move them to a bigger pot before they are ready. Use a clay or plastic pot that allows an inch or two of space around the pseudo bulbs.
How do I potting a new Cymbidium orchid?
When potting a new cymbidium orchid, it’s crucial to choose the appropriate container and potting media. The best pots for cymbidium orchids are usually made of plastic or terracotta, as these materials provide good drainage and aeration.
Do cymbidium orchids grow in terracotta pots?
Cymbidiums grow best in terracotta pots with good drainage. Because they use a potting medium with smaller particles, Cymbidium orchids also have potting needs that are different from epiphytic orchids. While they need proper drainage, the potting mix will fall through the holes in most orchid pots and make a big mess of your house.
What kind of potting mix do Cymbidiums need?
A medium-grade fir bark with peat moss and perlite is a common mixture. Ryan pots up another cymbidium. This is a perfect sized pot for this specimen – it will allow the pseudobulbs to grow for another two years before crowding its container. The potting mix should be about one-inch below the top of the pot, so none of it overflows when watering.
Can Cymbidiums grow in pots?
Cymbidiums can be grown in pots both indoors and outdoors as long as the conditions are right. About 70% of orchids are epiphytes and grow on other plants. They use their roots to attach themselves to the plants but aren’t parasitic and don’t use their roots to draw nutrients from the host plant.