Can I Grow Hass Avocados in Florida?

A medium (30 ft; 9. 1 m) to large (65 ft; 19. The avocado tree is a large (Figure 2) evergreen tree, though some types lose their leaves for a short time before and during flowering. The tree canopy ranges from low, dense and symmetrical to upright and asymmetrical. Limbs are easily broken by strong winds or heavy crop loads.

Leaves are 3 to 16 inches (7. 6 to 41. 0 cm) in length and variable in shape (elliptic, oval, lanceolate) (Figure 3). They are often hairy (pubescent) and reddish when young, then become smooth, leathery, and dark green when mature.

The many-flowered lateral inflorescences (structures that hold the flowers) are borne in a pseudoterminal position (Figure 4). The central axis of the inflorescence terminates in a shoot. Flowers are perfect, yellowish-green, and 3/8 to 1/2 inch (1 to 1. 3 cm) in diameter (Figure 5).

The fruit is a berry, consisting of a single large seed, surrounded by a buttery pulp (Figure 6). Florida avocado varieties contain 3 to 15% oil. The skin is variable in thickness and texture. Fruit color at maturity may be green, black, purple or reddish, depending on variety. The fruit can be round or pit-shaped, and it can weigh anywhere from a few ounces to five pounds. 3 kg). The fruit does not generally ripen until it falls or is picked from the tree. In Florida, the fruit is ready to be picked when it reaches a certain date on the calendar and a certain weight or size. The specific dates, weights, and sizes used to determine maturity vary by variety.

Avocado flowers are bisexual, however, the female and male flower parts function at different times of the day. Different kinds of plants are divided into A and B types based on what time of day the female and male flower parts start to reproduce. New evidence indicates avocado flowers may be both self- and cross-pollinated under Florida conditions. When the second flower opens, pollen from the anthers moves to the stigma of the female flower parts. This is called self-pollination. Cross-pollination may occur when female and male flowers from A and B type varieties open simultaneously. Cross-pollination is done by big flying insects like bees and wasps, while self-pollination seems to be mostly caused by wind.

Varieties vary in the degree of self- or cross-pollination necessary for fruit set. Some varieties, such as Waldin, Lula, and Taylor fruit well when planted alone. Others, like Pollock and Booth 8 (both B types), don’t, so it’s probably best to plant them with A types that bloom at the same time to make sure they get enough pollen and fruit. Before planting an avocado tree, homeowners should scout their neighborhood for other home landscapes with avocado trees. If you live in an area with other avocado trees, planting just one will probably be enough to get enough pollination. If there aren’t any other avocado trees nearby, you may choose to plant two, one an A-type and the other a B-type (see Table 2). This will help insure good pollination and fruit set.

Avocado varieties are classified in three groups, known as the West Indian, Guatemalan and Mexican “races”. West Indian avocados come from the tropical lowlands of southern Mexico and Central America. Guatemalan and Mexican avocados, on the other hand, come from the mid-altitude highlands of Guatemala and Mexico. The distinguishing characteristics of the three races is summarized in Table 1. Most of the early season varieties in Florida are West Indian types. The midseason and late season varieties are mostly Guatemalan-West Indian hybrids or Guatemalan types, which have traits that are in between those of the two races. Some characteristics of Florida avocado varieties are summarized in Table 2.

West Indian and some hybrid varieties do best in lowland tropical climates and subtropical areas that don’t get too cold. Mexican varieties are more cold-tolerant and not well-adapted to lowland tropical conditions. Guatemalan x Mexican hybrids are generally more cold-tolerant than West Indian x Guatemalan hybrid varieties.

In general, avocados should be planted in the warmest areas of the State, i. e. , along the southeast and southwest coasts of Florida. West Indian and some hybrid types can’t handle cold well and only do well in places where it doesn’t freeze very often (Table 1). Varieties with little cold-tolerance include Donnie, Dupuis, Simmonds, Pollock, Nadir, Hardee, and Waldin. Some types, like Tonnage, Taylor, Lula, Kampong, Meya, and Brookslate, can handle cold better and can be planted in places where it rarely gets below freezing (24°F–28°F). Moderately cold-tolerant types (25°F–30°F) include Beta, Choquette, Loretta, Booth 8, Hall, Monroe, and Reed. More than just able to handle low temperatures, Mexican and Mexican hybrid varieties like Brogdon, Ettinger, Gainesville, Mexicola, and Winter Mexican can really handle it. However, these varieties may be difficult to find in the nursery trade.

Most avocado varieties do not come true from seed (i. e. because a seed won’t produce the same variety, they have to be grown from stems and leaves (Figures 7 and 8). Cleft grafting is the preferred method of propagation in Florida, although veneer grafting is also used. Young, vigorously growing seedlings are used for rootstocks, and terminals of leafy shoots are used for scion material. It works best to graft from November to February or March, when it is cooler, but it can be done from June to March if there is plant material available. Cutting down trees and putting scions of the desired varieties on their stumps can be used to top-dress established trees. New shoots that grow from stumped trees can also be veneer-grafted. Propagation by cuttings and air-layering has not been successful.

In Florida, Lula and Waldin seedlings are often used as rootstocks because they are uniform, strong, and easy to get seeds for.

Less than 1% of the flowers on an avocado tree ultimately produce fruit. Some types produce a lot of fruit, but most of them fall off in the early summer. Other types produce less fruit, but most of them stay on the tree until they are fully grown. Varieties differ in productivity and in regularity of bearing, some producing a large crop only every other year. Trees that are under a good cultural program (i. e. , fertilized and watered) have less of a tendency to alternately bear.

Grafted trees begin to produce after 3 to 4 years. In Florida, fully grown trees produce about 2 to 3 bushels (110 to 165 lbs; 50 to 75 kg) of fruit each year. However, with good management, considerably better production can be expected. Avocado varieties in Florida mature from June to March (Table 2). Planting more than one variety will prolong the avocado season from the home landscape.

Planting distances depend on soil type and fertility, current technology, and expertise of the homeowner. Avocado trees in the home landscape should be planted 23 to 30 feet or more (7. 0 to 9. 1 m) away from buildings and other trees. If you plant trees too close to other trees or buildings, they might not grow right or produce a lot of fruit because they will be shaded.

Avocado trees can’t grow in soils that flood or don’t drain well, but they can handle many types of well-drained soils. When it rains or floods all the time, trees often lose growth and yield, show signs of nutrient deficiency, die back, and even die. Under these conditions, trees are highly susceptible to root infection by Phytophthora fungi.

If the sandy and limestone soils of Florida don’t flood or have bad drainage, trees grow well and produce good crops. In the home landscape, select an area that does not flood. If you think the soil might get too wet or flooded, plant on a big hill or mound made of native soil that is 2 to 4 feet high. 6 to 1. 2 m) by 4 to 6 ft diameter (1. 2 to 1. 8 m).

Planting an Avocado Tree

One of the most important things you can do to make sure your avocado tree grows strong and produces fruit is to plant it correctly. The first step is to choose a healthy nursery tree. Nursery avocado trees are usually grown in 3-gallon pots, and they stand 2 to 4 feet above the soil. Large trees in smaller containers should be avoided as the root system may be “root bound”. This means that all the empty space in the pot has been filled with roots, and the tap root is now growing in a circle around the corner of the pot. Root bound trees may not grow properly once planted in the ground. Search the tree for bugs and diseases, and look for cuts and other problems in the tree’s trunk. Select a healthy tree and water it regularly in preparation for planting in the ground.

In general, avocado trees should be planted in full sun for best growth and fruit production. Select a part of the landscape away from other trees, buildings and structures and powerlines. Remember avocado trees can become very large if not pruned to contain their size. Choose the hottest spot on the land that doesn’t flood or stay wet after normal summer rainstorms.

Avocado Trees and Lawn Care, Weed Control, and Mulch

Avocado trees in the home landscape are susceptible to trunk injury caused by lawn mowers and weed eaters. Cutting grass should never hit a tree trunk, and weed eaters should never be used near tree trunks. Tree trunk damage from tools or vehicles will weaken the tree and, if bad enough, may even cause it to die back or die. Weed and feed products should not be used around or near the bases of tropical fruit trees, as this could make them die.

Keeping a grass-free area at least 2 to 5 feet away from the tree trunk is the easiest way to keep weeds from taking over the area next to the tree. Putting mulch around avocado trees in your yard helps keep the soil moist, gets rid of weeds near the tree trunk, and makes the soil better near the surface. Mulch with a 2 to 6 inch (5–15 cm) layer of bark, wood chips, or similar mulch material. The base of the tree shouldn’t rot, so keep the mulch 8 to 12 inches (20–30 cm) away from it.

Avocado trees have roots that go beyond the drip line of the tree canopy. It’s not a good idea to fertilize the lawn next to avocado trees too much because it could hurt the trees’ ability to fruit or the quality of the fruit they do produce. When lawn sprinklers are set to a timer, they may water too much, which can kill avocado trees. This is because too much water, too often is being applied which results in root rot.

Formative pruning during the first 2 years may be desirable to encourage lateral branching and growth. The trees should have their tops cut back to 10 to 15 feet after a few years of production. 1 to 4. 6 m). Taking off a few upper branches back to their roots (crotches) every year will help keep the lower tree canopy from dying because the upper canopy blocks it. Keeping a smaller tree also makes it easier to spray it, care for it, and pick its fruit. It also greatly lowers the risk of storm damage. Do not remove lower tree branches.

For early types, pruning should be done soon after harvest. For late types, pruning should wait until there is no longer a risk of frost. Severe pruning is sometimes used to reduce tree height or width of very large trees. It does not injure avocado trees, but reduces fruit production for one to several seasons. Once avocado trees become 30 ft (9. 1 m) or taller extreme caution should be used in pruning the trees. Climbing trees to prune them is dangerous and not recommended. Pruning of large avocado trees should be done by a professional arborist that is licensed and insured.

Growing Avocados with Seth in Brevard County, Florida zone 10a

FAQ

When to harvest Hass avocados in Florida?

Can avocados grow in Florida?

Avocados don’t mind Florida’s natural soil. Avocados are tropical plants and prefer warm weather, rain and lots of sun. Most of Florida has plenty of this. There are a lot of varieties of avocados that we can grow here in Florida, your standard ‘hass’ avocado is just the tip of the iceberg.

What are the best avocado varieties in Florida?

Below is a list of the best avocado varieties for different regions in Florida: ‘Super Hass’ feels, looks, and tastes just like Hass. The ‘Super Hass’ tree is more robust than the ‘Hass’. The fruit produced by the ‘Super Hass’ is slightly larger than the ‘Hass’, and it also weighs about a pound more.

What is the difference between California & Florida Hass avocados?

Another notable difference between Hass grown in Florida vs California is the fruit’s final mature size. Specifically, California-grown Hass Avocados are small-sized fruits that typically weigh between 0.5 and 0.7 lb, while Florida-grown Hass Avocados are even smaller, weighing between 0.25 and 0.35 lb.

Why is a Hass avocado so hard to grow?

This is likely due to the fact that Hass is simply not well adapted to Florida’s soil conditions, wetter climate, and much lower elevation. The Hass Avocado features dark purple (bordering on black), pebbled, and pliable skin that peels very well.

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Robby

Hello! I'm Robby, your passionate guide in the world of gardening and flowers. With an obsession for all things green and blooming, I'm here to share my journey with you. My goal is to provide clear, practical information on gardening trends and techniques, making your plant adventure both simple and enjoyable. Whether you're tending to indoor plants or designing outdoor landscapes, let's grow and flourish together in this beautiful world of nature!

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