When I moved into my small, new house, the backyard was a big, empty patch of dirt. I knew I had to plant trees there.
Before it had been cleared for construction, it was a beautiful slice of forest. I’d asked the builder to take down as few trees as possible.
A fringe around the edges was better than nothing but wasn’t ideal after he took almost all of them.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
I promised myself that if I ever build a house from scratch again, I’ll be there when they clear the land so they don’t cut down more trees than they need to.
I also decided to plant as many trees as I could. To start with, my husband and I bought and planted 11 trees, four of which were fruit trees.
Our wallets were a little shocked, but they were worth the investment. Now I’ve started growing my own pear trees from cuttings.
They are usually spread by grafting or budding to make clones, which needs a specific set of skills and tools.
Fruit trees usually don’t grow well from seeds because the plants they grow won’t be exactly like the parent plant.
While it’s not an easy task, the answer is a resounding yes. Plus, by rooting a cutting, you will grow a clone of the parent tree.
If you want to grow pear trees in a way that is both fun and easy on the wallet, this guide will show you how to do it.
Have you ever tasted a juicy, sweet pear from a friend or neighbor’s tree and wished you could grow that exact variety in your own yard? Propagating pear trees from cuttings of an existing tree is an affordable way to clone your favorite fruit. With a little bit of effort you can create genetically identical copies of exceptional trees preserving prized characteristics like flavor, productivity, and disease resistance.
In this comprehensive guide, I’ll walk you through the entire process of pear tree propagation, from selecting the parent plant to transplanting your new sapling. You’ll learn propagation techniques like hardwood cuttings, softwood cuttings, layering, grafting, and budding. With the right approach and some patience, you can propagate pear trees from almost any healthy specimen. Let’s get growing!
An Overview of Pear Tree Propagation Techniques
There are several ways to propagate a pear tree, depending on the time of year and resources available. Here’s a quick summary:
-
Softwood cuttings – Taking 6-8 inch cuttings from new growth in late spring/early summer when wood is soft and pliable Root in potting mix
-
Hardwood cuttings – Taking 6-8 inch cuttings from older wood in late fall/winter when wood is hard Root in potting mix
-
Layering – Bending a low branch down to ground level, wounding it, and burying in soil. Roots form while still attached to parent.
-
Grafting – Joining pear tree scion wood to compatible rootstock. Requires rootstock, skill, and equipment.
-
Budding – Inserting a bud from desired pear variety into rootstock. Requires rootstock, skill, and equipment.
For beginning propagators, taking cuttings is the easiest method. Grafting and budding demand specialized tools and a very precise technique. Let’s look at cuttings first.
Propagating Pear Trees from Cuttings
Taking cuttings from an existing pear tree is a simple way to create genetic clones. With proper care, cuttings will form roots and grow into mature, fruiting trees. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
Selecting Cutting Material
-
Choose a healthy parent tree that exhibits ideal characteristics like disease resistance, fruit quality, etc. Avoid weak or diseased trees.
-
For softwood cuttings, select young, green, flexible shoots in early to mid summer.
-
For hardwood cuttings, look for straight, healthy branches around 1/4 inch thick, after trees enter dormancy in late fall or winter.
Preparing Cuttings
-
Cut a 6-8 inch section of stem just below a leaf node using clean, sharp pruners.
-
Remove all but 2-3 leaves at the tip to reduce water loss.
-
Dip the bottom 1-2 inches in rooting hormone (optional but boosts success rate).
Rooting Cuttings
-
Stick cuttings 2-3 inches deep in a pot filled with loose, well-draining potting mix.
-
Water thoroughly and place in a warm spot out of direct sun.
-
Maintain constant moisture, but avoid overwatering. Roots may take 4-12 weeks to form.
-
When roots are several inches long, transplant seedling into a larger pot until ready for the orchard.
With ideal conditions, up to 75% of pear cuttings may root successfully. Hardwood cuttings are slower but less prone to drying out than softwood. Taking several cuttings will ensure you get at least a few viable seedlings.
Propagating Pear Trees by Layering
Layering is another propagation method that doesn’t require special tools or skills. It involves encouraging roots to form on a branch while it’s still attached to the parent tree. Here’s how:
-
Select a low, flexible branch to work with.
-
Use wire or clamps to bend the branch down to ground level without snapping.
-
Scrape off 1-2 inches of outer bark where branch touches soil.
-
Bury that section under 2-4 inches of soil, leaving branch tip exposed.
-
Firm soil gently and keep moist. Roots should develop over several months.
-
When roots are well established, cut layered branch from parent and transplant.
The advantage of layering is that the branch remains nourished by the parent tree while developing its own root system. About 50-80% of layered pear branches will root successfully.
Grafting and Budding Pear Trees
Grafting joins two plant parts – the scion wood from a desired variety and the rootstock – to grow into a single tree. Budding is similar, using just a single bud. Both require suitable rootstock, special tools, and some skill.
Reasons to graft or bud pear trees:
-
Propagate varieties that are difficult to root from cuttings
-
Create dwarf trees by grafting onto dwarfing rootstock
-
Provide disease resistance by using immune rootstocks
-
Combine characteristics of two varieties like flavor and climate tolerance
Here’s an overview of the grafting/budding process:
-
Obtain appropriate rootstock for pear variety. Must be closely related.
-
Collect scion wood or buds during winter dormancy. Refrigerate if needed.
-
In early spring, join scion & rootstock using whip & tongue, cleft graft, or budding methods.
-
Wrap graft union to protect from drying out.
-
If successful, tree will grow as a combo of both joined plants.
Grafting takes practice but allows you to propagate trees that are difficult by other methods. Consult detailed guides for instructions on grafting/budding techniques. An experienced grafter can also help get you started.
Caring for Young Propagated Pear Trees
With proper care, your new propagated pear trees should flourish. Follow these tips:
-
Gradually acclimate potted trees to outdoor conditions before planting.
-
Find a spot with full sun (at least 6 hours per day) and well-draining soil. Amend if needed.
-
Space standard trees 20+ feet apart. Dwarfs 10-15. Avoid planting near aggressive trees.
-
Water 1-2 times per week for the first year, providing about 1 inch of water each time.
-
Stake tree for support the first 2-3 years. Remove stake once established.
-
Prune judiciously in late winter to shape tree and allow sun to reach branches.
-
Control weeds/grass within 3 foot circle around trunk. Mulch can help suppress weeds.
-
Be diligent about preventing disease and pest damage, which can kill young trees.
With proper propagation methods and aftercare, you can grow all the pear trees your heart desires! The satisfaction of biting into a juicy pear picked from your own cloned tree is well worth the initial effort. Don’t be afraid to branch out and try propagating new varieties.
Frequently Asked Questions About Propagating Pear Trees
If you’re new to propagation, you probably have plenty of questions. Here are answers to some common pear tree FAQs:
Can you grow a pear tree from a cutting?
Yes! Taking softwood or hardwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate pears. Cuttings taken in summer or winter can be rooted to grow genetically identical trees.
How do you propagate an old pear tree?
Layering branches or grafting onto rootstock are good options for old pear trees. Cuttings can be difficult if growth is minimal and wood is very hard.
What’s the best way to propagate a pear tree?
For beginners, softwood or hardwood cuttings are the easiest. More experienced propagators may prefer grafting or budding onto rootstock for greater control.
How long does it take to propagate a pear tree?
Cuttings typically take 2-4 months to root. Graft unions need about 1 year to fully join. So plan on 1-2 years minimum before planting new trees outside.
Can you grow a pear tree from a store bought pear?
No, seeds from grocery store pears will not grow true to parent. They require propagation via cuttings, grafting, etc. to clone the original tree.
When should I propagate pear trees?
Early summer for softwood cuttings, late fall/winter for hardwood. Graft in very early spring before buds open. Layering can be done anytime in the growing season.
Final Thoughts on Propagating Pear Trees
The techniques discussed here can also be used for other fruit trees besides pears. So don’t be afraid to experiment with propagating apples, stone fruits, citrus – whatever grows best in your climate. As you gain experience, consider joining a grafting club or taking a propagation workshop to build your skills.
Have you tried your hand at propagating pear trees or other fruits? I’d love to hear about your adventures with cuttings, grafting, layering, and more in the comments! Let’s swap stories and propagation tips.
Prepare Your Cuttings for Rooting Success
Remove the bark from the bottom inch or two of the stem and around the leaf nodes by carefully scraping it off. Next, dip the bottom of the stem into your powdered rooting hormone or cloning gel.
After that, make a hole in the potting mix and carefully put the cuttings in their clear plastic cups. Place the cups on your seed starting tray.
Set your seed starting tray on your heat mat, if you have one, and put the humidity dome on top of it. Make sure the place you choose gets at least six to eight hours of indirect sunlight every day and is usually between 70°F and 75°F.
Maintain the heat mat at a temperature of 70°F and mist the branches twice a day. Water the potting mix daily, keeping it moist but not soggy. To keep the exposed part of the stem from drying out, the humidity dome should always be on.
Cuttings may not grow roots for a few weeks to a few months. Take your time and keep those little pear tree hopes warm and wet for as long as you need to.
Cuttings of softwood can grow roots in as little as three weeks, but cuttings of semi-hardwood usually need at least six weeks.
You can check for root formation by gently pulling on the stem. If you feel a little resistance, then you know it’s started to take root.
If you see any part of the stem looking fuzzy, gently remove it with a cloth and open the dome’s vents to let some dry air in. This will keep the mildew away.
As the roots develop, you’ll be able to see them through the clear plastic of the containers.
You should cut off any new growth that looks like tiny flowers or leaves before the roots are one to two inches long. This will keep the plant’s attention on growing roots.
When you see that the roots are more than two inches long, you’re headed toward success. Now it’s time to repot your fledgling pear trees.
Find the Right Type of Cutting
Pears are members of the Pyrus genus and there are typically two species grown in home orchards: P. communis, the European pear, and P. pyrifolia, the Asian variety. Both of these can be propagated via stem cuttings.
There are a few things you need to do to make sure the branches you pick will be good for rooting. The first step, of course, is to find an existing pear tree to take a cutting from. Your neighbor might have some nice cultivars and be happy to give you a branch or two from each one.
When you’ve found your source, it’s time to figure out which type of cutting you want to take. There are two types that work well for rooting: softwood and semi-hardwood.
From late spring to early summer, when the tree is growing new leaves, a softwood branch section is cut. As the name suggests, the wood is soft and grows roots more quickly than semi-hardwood.
If you look closely at a branch, you can see where the new growth occurs. The wood is lighter than older growth, and it just looks soft and green and new.
From the middle to the end of summer or the beginning to the middle of fall, depending on where you live, you can cut a branch that is mostly wood. At this point, the early summer’s new growth is beginning to turn brownish-gray, woody, and hard.
Softwood branches get roots more quickly, but they also dry out more easily, which can stop or slow root growth. Semi-hardwood grows roots more slowly but dries out less easily.
You can start getting your supplies once you know what kind of young branches you want to take and where to find them.
To successfully root a cutting, you will need a set of tools, but it’s not as hard as grafting onto a rootstock.
You’ll need:
- Pruning shears.
- Three to six clear plastic cups with three holes punched in the bottom (or more, if you want to take more cuttings)
- You can put sand in the bottom of the cup to keep fungus gnats from getting in through the holes and eating the roots.
- You can get soilless rooting medium like Espoma Premium Potting Mix on Amazon, or you can mix perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, and sand together to make your own.
- The stems won’t dry out because the spray bottle will mist them.
- You can use cloning gel or rooting hormone. I like this cloning gel from Arbico Organics.
- a flat tray for starting seeds with a dome to keep the seeds moist, like this set from Home Depot
- A seedling heat mat, like this one from Home Depot
It might look like a long and complicated list, but getting a pear branch to take root is all about making the right conditions, and the things above help you do that.
Fill your clear cups with the potting mix you want to use and add water to the mix before you start.
You need to measure a piece that starts at the tip of the branch and goes back about six to eight inches along the stem, no matter if the wood is soft or semi-hard.
Cut it away from the tree with the pruning shears. You’ll need to take at least three to six cuttings as not all will necessarily be successful. If you can, take them from two different cultivars.
Trim the base of the branch to a 45 degree angle.
Next, trim off all the leaves and any buds present on the bottom two-thirds of the cutting. New roots will actually grow from the leaf nodes.