Cauliflower is one of those vegetables that seems so easy to grow until it isn’t. You carefully tend to your plants watching the leaves fill out nicely, only to end up with no cauliflower heads to show for it. This frustrating outcome is all too common for home gardeners. Luckily, there are some key things you can do to help your cauliflower plants actually form those beautiful dense heads of white curds.
Common Reasons for No Heads
There are a number of factors that can result in cauliflower plants failing to produce heads Here are some of the most frequent causes
Poor Seed Selection
Choosing a variety that is not suited for your climate is one of the most preventable mistakes. Be sure to select seeds suited to your USDA Hardiness Zone, with days to maturity that fit your growing season. Cauliflower needs consistent cool temperatures, around 60-70°F, to thrive.
Seedling Stress
Cauliflower is very sensitive in its early growth stages. Giving seedlings the proper care, including hardening off properly when transplanting outside, is crucial. Stress during this time can severely impact head formation later on.
Insufficient Sunlight
Cauliflower is a sun lover requiring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate sunlight, you’ll likely end up with lots of leaves but no curds.
Nutrient Deficiencies
As a heavy feeder, cauliflower depends on having fertile, nutrient-rich soil. Macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are essential, as are micronutrients like boron. Test your soil to identify any deficiencies.
Poor Drainage
While cauliflower needs consistent moisture, wet soggy soil will spell disaster. Good drainage is a must. Standing water leads to root rot and disease.
Lack of Water
On the flip side, letting cauliflower plants dry out, even just once, can seriously impact head formation. Supply at least 1-2 inches of water per week.
Overcrowding
Proper spacing, with 2+ feet between plants, allows for good air circulation. Overcrowded cauliflower will be stressed as they compete for light, water and nutrients.
Pests & Diseases
Common cauliflower pests like cabbage worms can quickly defoliate plants. Diseases like downy mildew are also harmful. Stay vigilant to keep plants healthy.
Failure to Rotate Crops
Rotating crop locations annually prevents nutrient depletion and disease buildup in the soil. Failing to rotate puts plants at a disadvantage from the start.
Temperature Extremes
Cauliflower will bolt and button with too much heat. It can also suffer damage during cold snaps. Use floating row covers and mulch to maintain ideal temperatures.
How to Get Beautiful Heads
Once you know the common pitfalls, avoiding them is half the battle. Here are some pro tips for coaxing your cauliflower to produce picture-perfect curds:
-
Choose short-season varieties suited for your zone. Look at days to maturity.
-
Start seeds indoors and properly harden off transplants before moving outside.
-
Give plants full sun exposure for at least 6 hours daily.
-
Test and amend soil to provide optimal nutrient levels.
-
Ensure good drainage and avoid overwatering.
-
Space plants at least 24 inches apart and in rows 30-36 inches apart.
-
Cover plants with floating row cover to protect from pests.
-
Rotate plant families yearly to replenish soil nutrients.
-
Use floating row covers and mulch to maintain ideal temperatures.
-
Be patient – wait the full days to maturity before giving up hope!
While cauliflower can be persnickety, don’t get discouraged. Pay close attention to its preferences, and with a little luck you’ll be rewarded with a bountiful harvest. Nothing beats the satisfaction of cutting into that first beautiful, dense, creamy head picked fresh from your own garden.
What Is a Cauliflower Head?
A cauliflower head is made up of hundreds of small flower buds. The curd-like buds grow on branched stems known as florets. The florets join together to make a big white (or green or purple) head. Cauliflower heads can be anywhere from 5cm to 30cm in diameter, depending on the variety. Unlike broccoli, cauliflower plants produce only a single head with few if any side shoots. The best heads will have buds that are so close together that it’s hard to see each one. They will also be firm and heavy, and there won’t be any brown spots on them.
How to Use Climate Zones
First, find your climate zone using the map or descriptions below. The next step is to look at our sowing chart. It shows when to plant our most popular seeds in each climate zone.
Even though knowing your climate zone can help you plan your garden, there are many other things that could affect how your plants grow, such as weather that isn’t typical for the area, the microclimate of your garden, and how you take care of your plants. You know your garden better than we do, so if you think a different climate zone would work better for it, feel free to use that as a guide.
Our climate zones cover a lot of land in Australia, so gardeners should think about what and when to plant in their own area as well. One example is that gardeners in cool coastal areas have longer growing seasons than gardeners in alpine areas, even though both are in our “Cool Temperate” climate zone. People who live in cool places should look at the “days to maturity” information for each variety and pick ones that will be ready in a short growing season (6–12 weeks).
- Includes: Darwin, Cairns, Townsville, Exmouth
- It rains most of the year in the summer, and the winters are dry and warm. Ranges across northern Australia from Exmouth (WA) to south of Townsville (Qld).
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Alice Springs, Mildura, Albury-Wodonga, Shepparton, Wagga Wagga, Dubbo
- Summers are hot and dry, and winters can be warm or cool, depending on where you live. From the coast of Western Australia to Charleville (Qld), Tamworth (NSW), and Albury-Wodonga (NSW/Vic), this area is very big.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Brisbane, Bundaberg, Coffs Harbour, Hervey Bay, Mackay, Rockhampton, and the Sunshine Coast are all included.
- Warm humid summers with high summer rainfall and mild winters. Along the coast of Queensland and northern New South Wales, from north of Mackay to just south of Coffs Harbour
- Set as my climate My climate
- It includes Sydney, Perth, Adelaide, Newcastle, Toowoomba, Wollongong, Bunbury, and the Central Coast of NSW.
- Moderate humidity and reliable rainfall, with four distinct seasons. Covers the coast of NSW from north of Port Macquarie to south of Woollongong, as well as the coast of SA and the southeast coast of WA.
- Set as my climate My climate
- Includes: Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Launceston, Ballarat, Bendigo, Geelong, Mt Gambier
- It’s hot and dry in the summer and cold and dry in the winter, and there’s not much humidity. Some regions will experience frosts and snow. Australia’s southeast coast and the mountains in Victoria, New South Wales, and Tasmania are all part of this area.
- Set as my climate My climate
What if I can’t find my climate zone? If you can’t find your zone by looking at the map or the descriptions on this page, think of a place with a climate that is similar to yours and use that place’s zone as a guide.
But what if I live on the edge of two zones? If you live on the edge of two zones, you should read about both of them and choose the one that best describes your climate. If your garden has its own microclimate, you might be able to grow more plants for longer than people in your zone can. Lucky you!.
What is a microclimate? A microclimate is a small area where the weather is different from the rest of the area in terms of temperature or humidity. For instance, if you live in an area where frosts are common but your garden is protected by walls or big trees, it might not freeze. Also, if you live in a warm temperate zone but your garden is high up, your microclimate may be more like that of a cool temperate zone. Use this to help you figure out which zone applies to you.
Can I grow types that aren’t listed for my climate zone? Our climate zones and sowing chart will help you figure out what you can plant in your garden, but they’re just suggestions. We suggest that you begin by planting seeds that are native to your climate zone. After a few successful attempts, you can try varieties that grow in nearby zones and see how they do. After all, gardening is all about trying new things!
Cauliflower is a cool-season crop thats not only delicious but also versatile and nutritious. This cruciferous vegetable is a favorite ingredient among gardeners and cooks alike.
Growing cauliflower is rewarding, but it can also sometimes be a challenging experience. The most common problem gardeners encounter is poor (or no) head formation. Cauliflower is a slow grower, and it’s disappointing to care for plants if no heads appear. What’s more, cauliflower only produces one head per plant, so there are no second chances with this crop.
Read on for tips on how to grow the best cauliflower heads in your garden.
How to Get Broccoli and Cauliflower to Form Big Beautiful Heads: Shade Cloth & Mulch – Cool Soil!
FAQ
Why is my cauliflower growing but no head?
How do you get cauliflower to form heads?
Can you eat cauliflower leaves that don’t form a head?
How long do cauliflower heads take to grow?