A DIY U-shaped raised garden bed is a great way to grow vegetables, herbs and flowers in a small space. The U-shape design maximizes planting area while taking up minimal ground space. And the center cutout provides easy access to the plants without stepping on the soil.
Raised beds in general provide many benefits over traditional in-ground gardening:
- Easier on your back – no bending down required
- Improved drainage
- Warmer soil for an earlier spring start
- Customized soil mix optimized for plant growth
- Keep weeds and pests out more easily
But a U-shaped raised bed gives you all that in an efficient space-saving layout. Building one yourself as a DIY project can be enjoyable and affordable. Here’s a complete guide to planning and constructing your own U-shaped raised garden bed.
Planning Your DIY U-Shaped Raised Bed
Proper planning is key to building a raised bed that suits your space and needs Here are some tips
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Size it appropriately – common dimensions are 10×4 feet. Remember 4 feet width allows easy reach.
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Ensure proper sun exposure – at least 6 hours of direct sun is best for growing veggies.
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Pick a level spot – this makes construction much simpler.
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Locate it close to your house for easy access.
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Check for buried utilities before digging.
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Choose rot-resistant wood like cedar or redwood. Treated pine works too.
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For a 10×4 foot bed you’ll need about 3 cubic yards of soil mix to fill it.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
You can build a U-shaped raised bed with basic DIY tools:
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Saw – circular or reciprocating saw to cut boards
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Drill/driver – for drilling pilot holes and driving screws
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Tape measure
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Level – to check for level
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Shovel – for moving soil
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Gloves and safety glasses
For materials, you’ll need:
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Boards for the sides – 1×6 or 2×6 boards most common
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Boards for corner braces – 1×2 or 2×4 work well
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Landscaping fabric – to line bottom and block weeds
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Long screws to attach boards
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Quality soil mix to fill the bed
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Gravel or mulch for pathways
Get these supplies at your local home improvement store.
Step-by-Step Building Instructions
Follow these steps to DIY your own U-shaped raised garden bed:
Step 1: Layout and Level the Area
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Mark out the U-shape with stakes and string.
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Check for level in all directions using a 4-ft level.
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Remove any grass or sod within the layout.
Step 2: Assemble the Side Boards
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Cut boards to required lengths with circular saw.
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Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting.
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Screw boards together at corners to form long sides.
Step 3: Add Corner Braces
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Cut braces from 1×2 or 2×4 boards.
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Position braces diagonally across corner joints.
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Drill pilot holes and attach with long screws.
Step 4: Line Bottom with Landscaping Fabric
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Cut fabric larger than bed area to allow for overlap.
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Lay fabric over bare ground inside the frame.
Step 5: Move Frame into Position
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Carefully move frame into position atop fabric.
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Check corners for square and level. Adjust as needed.
Step 6: Backfill Bed with Soil
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Shovel soil mix into bed, 2-3 inches below top edge.
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Break up large clumps while backfilling.
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Gently tamp soil to compact it as you go.
Step 7: Top Up Soil and Add Mulch Pathways
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Fill bed to the top with remaining soil mix.
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Spread mulch or gravel in pathways around the beds.
That completes construction of your DIY U-shaped raised bed! Maintain the shape by occasionally re-checking for level.
Customization Options
The beauty of DIY raised garden beds is all the ways you can customize:
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Size – Adjust length, width and height as desired.
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Shape – Make multiple beds, L-shape, curved edges, etc.
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Materials – Use stone, brick, reclaimed wood, etc.
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Finishes – Paint or stain wood to match your home.
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Soil mix – Create custom mixes, try hugelkultur style.
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Height – Keep under 36 inches for accessibility.
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Covers – Add hoops, trellises or cloches.
Tips for Growing in Your Raised Bed
Here are some tips for getting the most from your U-shaped raised bed garden:
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Enrich soil annually by mixing in 2-3 inches of compost.
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Rotate vegetable plant families each year.
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Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to efficiently water.
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Add vertical growing space with trellises and cages.
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Practice interplanting with companion plants.
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Protect young plants with row covers or netting.
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Weed regularly when plants are young.
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Aerate and amend native soil if drainage issues occur.
Constructing your own DIY U-shaped raised bed unlocks the full potential of small space gardening. Follow the planning and building steps outlined to create a custom bed for your yard. Soon you’ll be growing fresh fruits, veggies and herbs in your new U-shaped raised garden bed.
A DIY project for a permanent garden box to provide a raised bed for your plants and decorate your backyard.
For those who want to improve their backyards, author Sara Bendrick provides a variety of DIY projects in Big Impact Landscaping so homeowners can get the most out of their property, expand their living space, and enjoy more time outdoors. Here, Bendrick gives step-by-step instructions for building a permanent U-shaped vegetable garden box — as well as an attached bench to help you enjoy your backyard plants.
Level: Beginner to intermediate
Cost: $$
Time commitment: 1 day
Professionals needed: None
Dimensions: 8-feet-by-9-feet U-shape
Having garden beds in your yard brings it to life. A raised bed is especially nice because it looks nice all year because it defines and organizes the space in your yard. A simple U shaped bed gives you maximum growing space with all-around access. A cute little bench and some diamond-shaped decorations can really dress it up! This big garden can be the yard’s main feature or go well with other parts of it. Plan to hand water unless you want to install an irrigation system.
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Miter saw or circular saw
- 2-to-3-inch level
- Shovel
- Rake
- Hand tamper
- Impact driver or drill and socket bit
- String line
- Speed square
- Stakes
- Clamps
- Hose with multispray nozzle
- Finish nail gun (optional, if not using deck screws)
- Three 2-inch-by-12-inch-by-10-foot boards, two of which have been cut into 9-foot pieces and one into two 51-inch pieces.
- Two 4-inch-by-4-inch-by-8-foot redwood boards, cut into eight 22-inch pieces
- Eight 2-inch-by-12-inch-by-8-foot boards
- Four whole
- Four cut to 5-feet-6-inches
- It takes six 2-inch-by-4-inch-by-10-foot boards, but you should wait to cut them until you know their exact sizes (cap).
- Two 2-inch-by-4-inch-by-8-foot boards, mitered to make twelve 15-inch pieces (diamonds).
- One 2-inch-by-6-inch-by-10-foot, cut to two 51-inch boards (bench)
- 1/3 cubic yard of 3/4-inch gravel
- Thirty-two 3-1/2-inch-by-3/8-inch lag bolts and washers
- 3/8-inch drill bit
- 3-1/2 cubic yards of garden soil
- One 1-pound box of 2-1/2-inch deck screws
Step 1: Choose a place to work. Pick a sunny spot that is mostly flat and easy to get to.
This garden box will fit in a 9-by-9-foot space. You can make yours bigger or smaller to fit your space. But I don’t think the arms should be less than 30 inches (2-1/2 feet) wide, because then it will be too small to plant two rows of vegetables.
Step 2: Choose your wood and cut it down to size. I used “merch” redwood, which is rough and imperfect redwood that is very cheap and works great for a rough, rustic veggie bed. I recommend using raw redwood or cedar for planters. Never use pressure-treated lumber for a vegetable garden. Using a miter saw, cut all of your wood to the sizes given above, or make changes to fit your needs.
Level your site. Most places will need a little work or to be cut and filled to make the surface level. You can either dig out the high spots and move the dirt to the low spots, or you can fill the whole area with 3/4-inch gravel. Compact it with a hand tamper and use a rake to level it out.
Step 4: Start with the back. Since we’re going to put this planter up against a fence, put together the long back pieces on the ground first. To do this, take one 9-foot board and line it up with one of the 22-inch, 4-by-4 posts. They should all be square on the bottom and hang over the side by 1-3/4 inches or as wide as your lumber, so that a sidepiece can fit in there later. Connect two 3-1/2-inch lag bolts and washers about 2 1/2 inches from each edge, making sure they are in the middle of the 4-by-4. Predrill holes as shown in step 5 and secure as shown in step 6. In the same way, attach a second 9-foot board above the first. Then, attach a second 22-inch 4-by-4 post on the other side, making sure to leave a 1-3/4-inch gap at the end.
Add an 8-foot 2-by-12-inch board that is the same height as the bottom board and fits into the space that hangs over the edge. Secure with the same bolt and washers as described above and repeat on the other side.
Step 5: Predrill the holes. Use a 3/8-inch drill bit to predrill holes in the wood as you go before you screw it in. This will keep the wood from splitting and help the lag bolt go into the wood.
Step 6: Put the lumber in place. Drive lag bolts and washers into both ends of the two pieces of lumber with an impact driver and a socket bit. Lag bolts are heavy-duty screws that are best for securing thick lumber.
Step 7: Run a string line and add the sides. Make sure the back is level and prop it up. Keep a string line attached to the back and pull it straight out. Use a speed square to make sure it’s 90 degrees. Secure it to another structure or tie it to a stake in the ground. Slide one of your 8-foot boards into the overhanging edge that is 1-3/4 inches longer than the string line. Secure it with lag bolts.
Step 8: Put the front on. Attach a 30-inch 4-by-4 front piece to one of the sides with a clamp or an extra set of hands. Clamps are great if you need to force a warped board into place.
Step 9: Check your level. Use a level to make sure you’re building straight up, and then use bolts to connect the 30-inch piece to the 4-by-4 post.
Add the top layer of wood. Drop in the top side pieces, predrill, and secure with bolts, just like you did in steps 5 and 6, but this time you’re building while it’s already in place. If you fill in with dirt, you can cover the top of the 4-by-4 to hide it. The top layer will be a few inches higher than the 4-by-4.
Step 11: Complete the box. To finish the box, finish the “legs,” which are the 8-foot sides, the 30-inch front, and the 5-foot-6-inch inner side on each side of the planter. The inside of the planter should have 4-by-4 posts that are flush with the ends of the 5-foot-6-inch boards. Afterwards, connect the 51-inch 2-by-12 boards to the 4-by-4 posts to make the box close in a U shape.
Step 12: Add dirt and gravel. Put two inches of gravel on the bottom to help water drain away. Then fill the box up with 3-1/2; cubic yards of garden soil. After putting a few inches of soil into the box, mist it down with a hose to help pack it down and keep it moist for the plants. Then, use a rake to spread it out. Do this step again and again until the pot is full to about 2 inches below the top and the soil just touches the inside 4×4 posts. It’s probably easiest to get this much soil delivered in bulk from a store that sells landscaping supplies. You can also buy it in bags, but that will cost more.
Step 13: Add a cap and bench seat. Attach two 2-by-6-by-51-inch boards to the inside corner of the bench, leaving 1/2-inch between them. Then, line up one of your 10-foot 2-by-4-inch boards so that its inside edge is flush with the inside edge of the top two 2-by-12-inch boards that are vertical. This will leave an overhang on the outside by about 1-1/2 inches. Use a miter saw to make cuts at 45-degree angles so the boards cross each other in the corners. Place exterior 2-1/2-inch screws in each corner, every 12 inches along the long sides, and every 6 feet on the short 30-inch pieces. Use a drill to make the holes.
Step 14: Add a background that looks nice. Take two 8-foot 2-by-4-inch boards and cut them in half lengthwise, making three separate diamonds that are each 15 inches long. Using 4 pieces per diamond, attach by using a 2-1/2-inch exterior screw on the side. Mark 18 inches above the fence from the middle of the planter. Use exterior deck screws or a finish nail gun to attach the diamond-shaped center piece. Space out the other two diamonds about 12 inches away on both sides and secure the same way. Now get planting!.
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FAQ
Is it cheaper to buy or build raised garden beds?
What is the cheapest method for raised beds?
How deep should a raised garden bed be for vegetables?
Is a U-shaped raised garden bed a good idea?
Creating your own home garden is not always an easy task, but with this DIY U-Shaped Raised Garden Bed, it will be easier than you may have thought. A simple U-shaped bed gives you maximum growing space with all-around access. Not only is the soil quality better in a raised garden, it will drain better as well.
What is a U shaped garden bed?
U-Shaped Cedar Raised Garden Bed Cedar is known for its natural rot resistance, making it an excellent material for garden bed construction. This U-shaped raised garden bed is an ideal design to maximize your growing space in a smaller area.
How to build a raised garden bed?
Seize your cedar and pine planks, take a look the photo-guideline and you would be on the right way to building the great raised garden bed. Some versions may be just slightly different shaped to save a little yard space. A rectangle shape can help depending on the size and shape of your specific yard.
How do you fill a raised bed with soil?
Just slide the side rails into the slotted corner posts and screw the tops in place and your raised bed frame is ready to fill with soil. These kits can also be double-stacked for a 21-inch deep garden. Raised bed garden soil is sold separately.
Is a raised garden bed right for You?
If you are looking to build your own backyard garden this spring, this raised garden bed is the perfect design. Raised garden beds are fairly easy to construct, even easier to maintain, and offer so many wonderful benefits for the food you are growing and you!
Do you need a U-shape garden bed?
If you have short arms, you may have a little trouble reaching all of the plants in a normal garden, but with a U-Shaped garden bed, that is no longer a problem; and that was the whole point of having a raised garden bed in the first place – easier access and less effort. That’s why a garden bed in a U-shape is simply brilliant!