Both practical and idyllic, farm ponds are a dream for many newbie farmers. The first thing that might come to mind is clear, clean water surrounded by lush grasses and maybe a weeping willow tree. But making that dream come true is often expensive and difficult, if it’s even possible. But you can tell if it’s possible if you know how your land is laid out, how water flows through it, and what you need to do to build a pond.
There is much more to building a pond than digging a hole and letting it fill. If you don’t have a background in engineering, you’re going to need outside help to make it happen. There are serious legal liabilities involved in dam construction (i. e. For those who want to build a pond, getting a permit may be hard (if it breaks) and there may be a lot of red tape to sort through.
Digging a pond can be a fun and rewarding project that adds beauty and function to your backyard. With proper planning and preparation, you can have a gorgeous pond up and running in no time. This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about how to dig a pond from start to finish.
Choose the Right Location
Choosing the optimal spot is the first step in pond creation There are several factors to consider when selecting a location
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Sun exposure – Aim for roughly 8 hours of sun per day Most aquatic plants need ample sunlight.
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Topography – Flat or gently sloping land works best. You can build ponds on steeper slopes but will need to put in extra effort.
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Access – Ensure you have room to maneuver equipment if needed. Check for obstacles like fences or trees.
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Soil type – Clay soil holds shape better than sand. But you can amend any soil by adding clay.
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Space – Account for adequate room for pond, plants, fish and pond maintenance access.
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Views – Pick a spot where you’ll enjoy looking at your pond. Near a patio offers prime viewing.
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Utilities – Avoid areas with underground wiring, pipes or septic systems.
Once you’ve selected an optimal site, mark the pond outline with spray paint or stakes. Make sure to follow local regulations for minimum setbacks and permits.
Size Your Pond Right
Bigger is not always better when it comes to ponds. Aim to build your pond as large as space allows while still fitting your needs. Most backyard ponds range from 100-500 square feet. Here are factors to help size your pond:
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Purpose – Decide if you want a wildlife pond, swimming pond or garden pond with fish.
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Fish – Koi and other fish need 10-20 gallons per fish. More space allows cleaner water.
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Plants – Allow ample space for aquatic plants around the edges and underwater.
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Maintenance – Larger ponds are harder to clean and maintain. Keep it manageable.
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Budget – Material and excavation costs increase with pond size. Set realistic budget.
Choose Flexible Pond Liner
Pond liners create a waterproof base to hold water in the pond. Flexible plastic liners made of EPDM or PVC offer the most versatility and value. Key advantages:
- Mold to any shape and slope
- Easy to install yourself
- Long lifespan of 20-30 years
- Hold up to weather and UV rays
- Less expensive than rigid liners
Measure your pond carefully, allowing some extra liner for adjustments. Choose thickness based on pond size:
- Up to 1000 gallons – 30 mil liner
- 1000-5000 gallons – 45 mil liner
- Over 5000 gallons – 60 mil liner
Plan Out Excavation
Excavating and shaping the pond depression takes careful planning. Follow these steps:
- Use stakes and landscaping paint to mark outlines.
- Determine depths – go minimum 18” deep for fish.
- Sketch cross sections to visualize shelves and slopes.
- Decide if doing by hand or renting equipment.
- Locate pump/filter placement if including water features.
Add shelves: Terracing the sides creates planting shelves at varying depths perfect for aquatic plants. Make shelves 6-12” deep and 6-18” wide.
Slope gently: Maximize safety and stability by sloping sides no steeper than 3:1 ratio.
Choose Rocks and Gravel
Line the bottom and shelves with gravel at least 2” deep. Smooth pea gravel provides the best plant growth medium. Use larger rocks and boulders to edge pond and line shelves.
Install Pond Liner
Installation tips for flexible pond liner:
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Unfold liner and allow to relax in sun for 1 hour before placing.
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Place liner over leveled gravel base. Smooth out all folds and wrinkles.
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Trim liner to fit, leaving excess to cover edges.
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Weigh down edges with rocks or gravel bags.
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Hide liner edges with planted soil and gravel.
Add Water Features
Water features like waterfalls and fountains give ponds added visual appeal. Incorporate water features by:
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Placing pump in proper spot during pond excavation.
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Running flexible tubing from pump location to water feature.
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Concealing tubing behind rocks or gravel.
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Choosing rocks that complement waterfall design.
Let Your Pond Fill In
Filling the pond completes construction and allows you to move onto the fun part – decorating with plants! Follow this process:
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Partially fill pond before adding plants.
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Plant outer shelves first, then work towards center.
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Plant deep water plants once shelves are filled in.
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Fill pond completely and allow 2-4 weeks for water to clear up.
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Add fish once water parameters are optimal.
Proper planning is key to digging a beautiful and functioning pond. Follow these steps and you’ll be enjoying your backyard oasis in no time! Let your creativity run wild when it comes to designing this new living water feature.
Frequently Asked Questions
How deep should I dig my pond?
Dig your pond at least 18-24 inches deep for good water volume and to prevent freezing solid in winter. Deeper ponds stay cooler in summer too. For fish, dig 2-3 feet deep.
How do I remove dirt when digging a pond?
First determine if you need to haul away excess soil. For small backyard ponds you can use soil to create berms and plant beds around pond edges. For larger ponds, you’ll need to load soil into a truck or dumpster.
What size pump do I need for my pond?
Choose a pump that can cycle all pond water at least once per hour. Calculate pond gallons, then pick a pump with matching GPH rating. Add more flow for ponds with waterfalls or fountains.
Do I need to add a liner under my pond rocks?
Yes, pond liner under rocks is essential to make your pond waterproof. EPDM or PVC liners prevent water leakage through soil and work beneath any rock or gravel.
What can I use if I can’t afford a pond liner?
For low-budget ponds, use a rigid preformed liner or a flexible tarp. These options won’t last as long as EPDM or PVC, but work well for smaller ponds. Compact clay soil on bottom to supplement.
Digging a new pond brings tranquility and nature right to your own backyard. Follow these key steps during planning and excavation to end up with a beautiful, thriving pond you can enjoy for years to come. Do your research, roll up your sleeves, and start digging!
Water and the Law
Many rural landowners don’t realize that they don’t own the water that flows across their property. The vast majority of lakes, wetlands, rivers and streams – all the way down to the tiniest tributaries that you could leap across in a single bound – are, from a legal perspective, considered Waters of the United States.
Doing anything that impacts these waters requires permission from the EPA under the Clean Water Act. Any water that is not covered under federal jurisdiction is often covered under state laws. In California, every drop of water is regulated, whether it’s in Lake Tahoe, a puddle on the streets of Los Angeles or in an aquifer beneath the Central Valley.
Most permit requirements don’t apply to ponds that are used legally for agricultural purposes, like watering livestock or irrigation. That being said, you will still have to apply for the exemption, which could be a lot of work. Most likely, you’ll need a permit to swim in a pond. The environmental protection division in each state (which is the EPA’s state-level enforcement arm) decides whether to give you one. The easier it is to get a permit, the farther away the pond is from a stream that flows all year.
Before you get carried away with grand visions of a farm pond, consult with your local Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) office to find out about the regulations that pertain to your property. The NRCS is a branch of the USDA charged with helping landowners conserve soil and water resources and can advise you on whether or not you need a permit and, if so, which agency you need to apply to. They provide free technical assistance – and sometimes financial subsidies – for building ponds.
There are a few places where you can get water for your pond, but you might need more than one to keep it full all year. Here are some of the pros, cons and important facts concerning each:
Surface Runoff. One of the easiest types of permits to get is for ponds that are filled by rainwater running off the land. This is because the ponds usually don’t hurt streams or aquatic life. If your pond is one acre-foot deep, you will need at least three acres of land that drains into it. (About an acre-foot, it means the amount of water that is in an acre of water that is one foot deep.) ).
In places that lack summer rainfall, like much of the Western U. S. , ponds fed only by surface runoff slowly dry up over the course of the summer. They are also prone to being cloudy because of the soil particles contained in the runoff.
Groundwater. Most of the time, groundwater isn’t enough to fill a pond on its own, but it can help a lot in ponds that get their water from surface runoff, which means they need less drainage space. The most groundwater is available in low-lying areas with a high water table. However, moderate slopes with wet soils (seepages) are an ideal place to build a pond.
Springs. Springs occur where seepages have sufficient volume to come above ground in a continuous flow. Some spring-fed ponds may not need any runoff from the surface to stay full, so they will be clean, clear, and cold. In some places, you may need a permit to fill your pond with spring water, but it is the best source of water for a farm pond.
Streams. For important environmental reasons, it is hard to get a permit to build a pond right in a stream. More often, a portion of streamflow can be diverted to help fill a pond in an adjacent area.
Wells. Some people pump water from a well into a pond, but it costs a lot of money to do so unless the pump is powered by the sun. Most people think that well water is only useful for small ponds or to fill up big ponds when they get dry.