Growing onions and shallots organically from seed is easy, cheap and fun. In this post, I’ll explain every step, from the seed packet to the plate. You can grow with me! Enter your email address to receive updates on this and other grow-along posts.
I used to grow onions from sets, but I stopped a few years ago because it was easier for me to grow them from seeds, and I didn’t have to worry about bringing onion white rot to my plot. There is a fungus called onion white rot that you can’t get rid of. It will always hurt your onion crops. It rots the root plate of the onion, shallot or garlic, turning the bulb to mush. It can be brought into your plot on onion sets but not seeds.
Homegrown shallots add a subtle oniony sweetness that’s hard to replicate with store-bought varieties, Growing shallots from seed takes some patience but saves money compared to buying bulbs annually Follow this complete guide for tips to harvest your own gourmet shallots
When to Plant Shallot Seeds
Shallots require a long growing season of up to 5 months. Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your last expected spring frost.
In warmer climates, you can direct sow shallot seeds outdoors in late winter But indoor sowing gives more control over conditions for best germination
Aim for a soil temperature around 60°F when transplanting seedlings outside. Cooler temperatures will stunt growth.
Choosing the Best Shallot Varieties
Look for shallot varieties adapted to your climate. ‘Prisma’ and ‘Matador’ are widely adaptable Northern types.
‘Eden’ and ‘Conservor’ perform well in short season areas. ‘Sterling’ tolerates heat if you live in warmer regions.
Heirloom French types like ‘Gray’ and ‘Red Sun’ offer excellent rich flavor. Explore different shallots to find your favorites!
Starting Shallot Seeds Indoors
You’ll need a seed starting mix and modular trays or small pots. Fill containers firmly but avoid compacting the soil.
Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep, placing 5-6 seeds together in each module or pot. Shallots grown from seed form small clusters.
Cover lightly with mix and water gently to moisten. Keep between 60-70°F for fastest germination over 10-16 days.
Once sprouted, provide ample light. Supplement with grow lights if needed. Thin to 3-4 evenly sized seedlings per module.
Transplanting Shallots Outdoors
Harden off seedlings for 7-10 days before transplanting. Gradually expose them to sun/wind to avoid shock.
Prepare garden beds with compost to optimize fertility and drainage. Space modules/pots 6 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart.
Dig holes the same depth as containers. Gently remove seedling clumps without separating and place in holes. Backfill and water in.
Use row covers if temperatures drop below 55°F. Remove once nights stay mild to encourage bulbing.
Ongoing Care of Seeded Shallots
Keep soils moist, watering 1-2 inches per week. Consistent moisture is vital for fast growth and large bulbs.
Weed diligently to prevent competition. Shallots have shallow roots and cannot outcompete weeds.
Side dress with balanced organic fertilizer when plants reach 6 inches. This fuels bulbing as roots contract.
Mulch around plants to retain moisture and reduce weeds. But avoid mulching right up to stems.
Harvesting Seeded Shallot Bulbs
Stop watering once 3/4 of foliage yellows and falls over, usually 100+ days from sowing. Overmature bulbs split.
Once tops dry and shrivel, carefully pull or dig clusters. Brush off excess soil but don’t wash yet if storing.
Lay them out of direct sun for 7-10 days to finish curing. Bring indoors if rain threatens.
When fully cured, cut tops to 1 inch above bulbs. Prepare for storage by braiding tops or bunching in mesh bags.
Refrigerate cured shallots at high humidity and just above freezing. Closely monitored garden beds also work for zones 8+.
Troubleshooting Common Shallot Problems
Leggy growth – Insufficient light after germination causes stretchy seedlings. Provide ample sunlight or grow lights.
Small bulbs – Hot temps, low moisture, or lack of nutrients during bulbing keeps shallots undersized.
Flowering stalks – Cold weather or planting too early can trigger premature flowering. Pinch off any stalks that form.
Splitting bulbs – Overmaturity, inconsistent watering, high nitrogen, or damage from diseases or pests can cause splitting.
Rot during curing – Wet weather or high humidity. Cure shallots in a garage, shed, or room with plenty of airflow.
The Reward of Growing Shallots from Seed
It does demand more time and attention than buying bulb sets each season. But the flavor and satisfaction of homegrown shallots from seed makes it worthwhile!
You’ll gain knowledge and control over the entire growing process. And harvesting plump, picture-perfect shallot clusters is incredibly rewarding.
The intricate flavor shallot seedlings develop over a full growing season is incomparable. Try this growing adventure and you may never buy bulbs again!
Sprinkle seeds into the rows
As simple as it sounds, I take a small amount of seed from the packet, pinch off a little, and sprinkle it with the other hand. When you plant seeds outside, where wind can blow them away, you can cup or close your hand to stop that from happening. It gives you a lot more control. You don’t have to plant all the seeds; onions and shallots germinate well, and each seed will probably grow into a full vegetable! Be smart and only plant as many as you need and can fit this year. You can save the rest in the packet for next year, which will save you money.
At this point, I plant onions and shallots pretty thickly, with about one seed every few millimeters, to make sure they get enough room. In the wild, onion seeds will germinate and grow close to each other without any problems. At this point, the same is true for shallots. When they are growing, I gently pull their roots apart, but I’ve found that they don’t mind this kind of treatment. The same is true of leeks, which I sow later in spring.
Cover seeds gently with the compost
Using my trusty label I gently brush the surrounding compost into the rows covering the seeds.
I usually water seed trays from below by putting them in a sink with some water in it or putting them in a tray and adding water to the tray. Since the compost will soak up the water on its own, this method is the best. Water from a can will move the seeds and compost around, messing up your rows and spacing. I used a can to water the plants slowly and carefully, doing a little at a time and waiting for it to soak in. I’ll keep the trays slightly damp but not soaking wet. They’re positioned in our sunniest window.
There won’t be a lid, cling film, or heat mat on top of these. Onions and shallots germinate quickly and easily in a place that’s warmer than the outside in the winter. I’ll keep an eye on the moisture levels so they don’t dry out.
How To Sow Shallot seed
FAQ
How long does it take for shallots to grow from seed?
Are shallots easy to grow?
Can you direct sow shallot seeds?
How many shallots will grow from one bulb?
How long does it take to grow shallots?
Moreover, shallots are generally smaller than garlic bulbs and have a mild onion flavor. They are relatively easy to grow. Like garlic cloves, they should be planted in the fall or early spring, and with their fast growth rate, they are usually ready to harvest in 100-120 days on average.
How do you grow a shallot plant?
Loose beds rich in organic matter and full sun are the recipe for growing shallots. They will grow, albeit a little slower and smaller, in partial sun and prefer slightly moist soil, but not wet. Shallots still need good drainage to prevent root rot. Shallots can be grown in containers as well. Choose a larger container at least ten inches deep.
Can you grow a shallot from seeds?
Shallots are usually grown from cloves (called shallot set) but sometimes (less often) from seeds. Set cloves in the garden as early as 2 to 4 weeks before the average last frost date in spring. Sow seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the average last frost date.
When should I plant shallot seeds?
Harvest the shallots when the leaves have turned yellow and the bulbs are firm. The best time to plant shallot seeds is in the early spring, about 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. This will give the seedlings plenty of time to grow and mature before the weather gets too hot.
