Tree Peonies are woody perennial shrubs. They bloom in early spring, after woodland peonies and before herbaceous peonies. Their woody structure supports gigantic dinner-plate-sized flowers on plants that can grow up to 7 feet. While tree peonies can take full sun, they thrive in dappled light. Tree peonies add structure to the garden after they bloom. In the summer, their deep green leaves turn bronze and purple in the fall. Native to China and cultivated for millennia, these deer-resistant plants thrive in zones 4-9. Some die-back may occur in zone 4 during particularly harsh winters. Tree peonies grow slowly, producing 1 to 6 inches of new woody growth each year. They require well-drained soil. A plant for the landscape. Stately, rare, breathtaking flowers, simply fabulous.
Tree peonies grow well in zones 4-9. Not sure what horticultural zone you are in? Click here to go to the USDA website and enter your zip code to find out.
One tip is to plant tree peonies in places where the roots of big trees or shrubs won’t get in the way. Plant tree peonies 5 feet apart. Keep in mind that your plant grows slowly and will need some time to fill in this space. But plan ahead, because tree peonies don’t like being moved. Plant tree peonies 5 feet apart.
Second, tree peonies need a neutral pH and soil that is rich in compost. Like all peonies, they cannot tolerate wet feet and should be planted in a location that is well-draining.
Third, although tree peonies can thrive in full sun, they prefer dappled light. Ideally, your tree peony wants morning sun and afternoon shade, or dappled sun throughout the day. This will give your tree peony ample sunlight while prolonging the life of the flowers. If you grow your tree peonies in full sun, you might want to use wax paper umbrellas to keep the flowers from fading. Also, make sure to keep an eye on how much water is in the soil so that your tree peony doesn’t dry out. Varieties with numerous petals will hold up in stronger sun than those with fewer petals.
All peonies need rich soil, good drainage, and a neutral pH. You are looking to create a sandy loam—soil with equal parts sand, clay, and compost. They cannot tolerate wet feet. When you plant, don’t put it in a low-lying area that will hold water, and be careful when you plant near automatic sprinkler or irrigation systems.
New tree peony plants should be planted 5 feet apart on center, and approximately 2. 5 feet from any edge or border. Once you have determined the site, measure the space you have available. If you are only planting one plant, the math is easy. If you are planning a bigger garden, scroll down for our suggestions.
When planning your peony garden, think about the long term. Tree peonies will grow up in about ten years and will be happy with little care for decades.
When you plant, don’t put it where snow can fall from the roof or where shovels or plows will pile it up. If you plant your tree peony in one of these places, you should watch out that the branches don’t break.
Fall is the traditional time to plant all cold-hardy plants, and in the past, that was also the only time peony roots were available. Thus, typically peonies are shipped bare root in the fall. They are freshly dug, and should be planted immediately.
PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. No matter how likely it is that it will frost or freeze, they should be planted as soon as you can get a shovel in the ground. Do not wait for the frost date to plant your peony roots.
PLANT THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Utilize the day or so between cold periods, when the ground is thawed enough to dig. New peonies can be frost heaved, so any peonies that were heaved out of the ground should be put back where they were. You can either leave them where they are and cover them with soil until the ground thaws, or you can bring them inside and put them in peat moss in the fridge until the ground thaws enough to dig. Peonies need cold weather to flower in the spring, so don’t mulch them. Mulch will keep the peonies from getting cold.
Winter planting occurs from the time the ground freezes solid, until the time the ground starts to thaw.
Follow the same instructions for winter planting as you would for fall planting. Here are some additional tips for the winter months:
If the ground is frozen solid when you buy or get your peony roots, you should keep them in the fridge until you are ready to plant them. Keep them in the bag as they came, do not add water.
PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. Plant them the first day that the ground has thawed enough to get a shovel in the ground. Do not worry if the ground has the potential to freeze again, or if it will snow.
IF YOUR PEONIES HAVE SPROUTED, plant as above. It is important to keep new shoots away from frost because they are more likely to get damaged if they are not planted far enough underground.
PEONIES ARE COLD-HARDY PERENNIALS. No matter how likely it is that it will frost or freeze, they should be planted as soon as you can get a shovel in the ground. Do not wait for the frost date to plant your peony roots. It is best to plant them while you still have cold or snowy days in the forecast.
If the ground is frozen solid when you buy or get your peony roots, it’s best to keep them in the fridge. Plant them the first day that the ground is soft enough to dig, regardless of future temperatures. Keep them in the bag as they came, do not add water.
If you plant peonies without their roots in the spring, they probably won’t grow much above ground the first year. You might find that the buds and leaves on peonies that were grown in pots die off before they are ready to be planted. Don’t worry, this is normal. That said, diseases are more prevalent on peonies that have been planted in spring. Watch for botrytis and treat accordingly.
There is an old adage when planting perennials: “First year roots, second year shoots, third year flowers. Putting in your peonies in the spring gives them a head start and helps their roots grow quickly that first spring. Next year, your peony should be a good size, and it might even bloom a flower or two.
Plan for the plant to mature to 5 feet wide. See Garden Layout for more information
New tree peony plants should be planted 5 feet apart on center, and approximately 2. 5 feet from any edge.
Start by digging a hole at least 2 feet deep and 1 foot wide. This will seem like a huge hole, but it is necessary for root growth and drainage. It’s best to plant your tree peony once and leave it there for many years, so take the time to do it right. Amend your soil, as mentioned below.
It is best to plant grafted tree peonies so that the graft is six inches below the soil’s surface. This deep planting lets the tree peony grow its own roots and stops the grafted herbaceous root from sending up herbaceous shoots. Any grassy shoots that come up from a grafted tree peony should be cut back, and the planting depth should be checked.
If you want tree peonies to grow their own roots, you should plant them so that the soil is two inches below the point where the stems come out of the roots. This will promote additional branches to emerge from the root.
Press down on the soil around the roots of your tree peony after planting it to get rid of any air pockets. Then, give it a lot of water. After planting a new tree peony, make sure it gets a good soak every two weeks for the first two growing seasons. This will allow the plant to get enough water while the root system becomes established. Remember that peonies do not like wet feet and be careful to not over water. The soil needs to dry out fully between waterings. Watering daily or the use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is very important to plant your peony in soil that drains well so that water doesn’t pool around the plant. Established peonies are very easy to take care of and don’t need much extra watering unless there is a severe drought.
Because you want to plant your peony and leave it alone, you should take the time to prepare the soil. Soil prep matters!.
Improperly planted tree peony. The blue arrow shows the herbaceous graft sprouting herbaceous stalks. This root was planted too shallowly. When the herbaceous root sends up stalks, it takes energy away from the tree peony and impedes growth.
The roots of a properly planted tree peony. The blue arrow shows the original herbaceous graft. The plant is growing a healthy fibrous tree peony root system above the graft.
We do not recommend planting peonies in pots, especially tree peonies. They do best when planted in the ground. Peonies are long-term perennials that will live for generations.
If you don’t have any space directly in the ground peonies can be successfully grown in raised beds. Drainage is the key to planting in any situation, especially raised beds. The beds need to be at least 2 feet deep so that tree peonies can be planted deeply (see above). We use landscape fabric to line the boxes and potting soil that has been mixed with compost, worm castings, and crushed limestone or granite to fill them. The beds are placed on the existing soil for optimal drainage.
If you’ve grown a lot of other long-lasting plants in pots, you might also be able to grow peonies successfully, but it’s risky. Make sure your pot is at least 5 gallons in size, at least 2 feet deep, and more like a planter. The bigger the pot, the better. There are commercial potting mixes out there, but we haven’t found one that we really like yet. Look for ones that have more holes in them.
Peonies need cold weather to flower, so containers should stay outside all winter. Do not bring them inside or store them in a warm greenhouse. Be sure that your pots do not continually fill with water, as this will cause peonies to rot. Peonies are especially at risk in the winter, when the bottom of the pot can freeze and stop water from draining if it starts to rain. This factor is easier to mitigate in warmer climates that get fewer extreme freeze thaw cycles.
Also, you shouldn’t keep peonies in pots for a few years and then move them to the ground. Peonies should be planted originally in their permanent location. Moving them will cause undue stress to the plant.
It’s possible for a tree peony to not grow above ground or get leaves the first spring. This can be very scary but typically the tee peony will start to take off the following spring. Even it they do leaf out the first year, do not expect much out of your tree peony. Peonies are very resilient and hardy, but do take time to establish and become a mature flowering plant.
Tree peonies should reach full height and size by year ten. The height, leaf coverage, and flower posture of your tree peony depends on the cultivar.
To pick the best peony plants for your garden, you should learn more about their history and how they were crossed with other plants. This greatly influences how each cultivar behaves in the garden. These factors will also influence the bloom time. The main groups of tree peonies are, in order of bloom:
We will review the characteristics of each type below, with suggestions on how to choose cultivars. We will start with the largest group, the classic tree peonies.
Tree peonies can handle more heat than herbaceous peonies and can grow all the way down to Horticultural Zone 9. In zones 7 through 9, these types of peonies don’t need any extra care.
After the flower blooms, feed the plant and shape it if necessary. During dry times, water it. Weed around the peonies and keep an eye out for disease.
Water During Times of Drought Remove the Leaves in Fall Prune Any Dead Branches Feed Before Winter
Peonies are incredibly cold hard plants. It is rare that light frost will damage plants or flower buds. Heavy frosts that last for several nights and keep the temperature in the teens may hurt the buds and pants for the season. If you think a hard or long frost is coming after your peonies have sprouted, you can cover them to keep them safe. Make sure the covering does not touch the plants or you will do more harm than good.
That being said, growing commercially, we don’t have the option to protect our plants from frost. We have acres of peonies, and in our experience, frost damage is rare. This is especially true for tree peonies that are more cold tolerant. There will be damage if the buds have already started to open, but most of the time, they get better if they stay closed tight. Just make sure you don’t touch your peonies when they’re frozen, because that will make them break. Wait until they’re warm again.
Growing tree peonies in full to half-day sun in rich soil that drains well lets them do most of their own growing. This is because their own nutrient cycle keeps them healthy. Nonetheless, a little food will help keep your peonies healthy and floriferous.
Three times a year, when you clean up your garden and get plants ready for winter, in the early spring just as new shoots appear, and again in the early summer after plants have bloomed. For each feeding, use a small amount of food.
Compost: Most of the compost we use at Peony’s Envy comes from nearby farms. We also use Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Emulsion and OMRI-certified worm castings. When adding compost, thin layers are better than thick ones. Also, remember to add it at the drip line and not in the middle of the plant, since adding it on the root will bury it too deeply and stop it from flowering in the long run. For large-scale projects in the area, we recommend Full Circle Mushroom Compost.
Foliar Feeds: Plants absorb nutrients more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. During important growing times, liquid fertilizers like Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer or Nature’s Source plant food can be used to feed the leaves. We recommend foliar feeding in early spring when peonies are setting buds.
Worm castings: We suggest using worm castings as an extra boost when planting for the first time, when planting in pots, or to bring a garden back to life after taking a break for a long time. It is garden gold, and a little goes a long way. As an added bonus, peonies will love its high pH.
If you do decide to use synthetic or partially synthetic fertilizers, pick one that is well-balanced and slowly releases nutrients. A 10-10-10 fertilizer is best for spring and summer, and a 5-10-10 is best for fall. Rarely do we use synthetic fertilizers at Peony’s Envy.
If you don’t want to collect peony seeds, you should cut off the flower stalks after the bloom to encourage root growth instead. Cut the stem just below the spent flower. Removing excess stem will reduce the amount of growth in the following year and should be avoided. This year’s green shoots will become next year’s woody branch.
With the more frequent droughts we have adjusted our tips on watering. Peonies like heavy infrequent soakings; when irrigation is necessary, consider drip lines instead of overhead sprinkler systems. When you plant a new peony for the first time, make sure it gets a good soak once a week. Weekly soakings keep the plant from being stressed by drought as it develops its fibrous root system. However, remember that peonies do not like wet feet, and be careful to not over water. Watering daily or use of foliar sprinkler systems can cause rot. It is very important to plant your peony in soil that drains well so that water doesn’t pool around the plant. Established peonies require less supplemental watering but still benefit from heavy infrequent soakings, especially in times of drought.
Peonies are very resilient plants that typically thrive and grow without incident. But every once in a while, a virus or fungus could take hold and hurt the health of your peony plants. Although infections generally start in early spring, they often go unnoticed until later in the summer. Left unchecked, these diseases can do real damage to your peonies.
For starters, if you have mature peonies in your garden that are blooming beautifully, you might want to leave them where they are. Peonies will be unhappy for a year or two after being moved. If transplanting is inevitable, the time to do this is in the fall when the plants are dormant. Peonies can be moved successfully at other times of the year if you need to, but it’s not a good idea.
Before you dig up your peony, you should make sure the new spot is ready, as explained in the section on planting.
The time to transplant tree peonies is in the fall, when the plants have become dormant. To lift an established tree peony, start at least 18 inches from the stem’s base and use a large garden fork to loosen the plant from the ground. Work your way around the plant and gently pry it off the ground. The roots will be deep and tough. Have burlap ready to help secure the root ball. Cut off any remaining leaves, being careful not to remove what will become next year’s woody stem. Plant immediately and water in well. If you move a tree peony, keep in mind that it will take a few years to get back to being healthy.
Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) are prized for their exotic, lush blooms in shades of pink, red, purple, and white. Though low-maintenance overall, properly pruning your tree peony is key to keeping it healthy, managing size, and encouraging prolific flowering. Here is a complete guide to pruning tree peonies step-by-step.
When is the Best Time to Prune Tree Peonies?
Timing is important when pruning tree peonies. Avoid pruning in fall since fresh wounds could allow frost damage. Late winter or early spring before new growth begins is ideal. This stimulates vigorous regrowth and maximum blooms, though some early flowers will be lost. For no flower sacrifice prune immediately after flowering ends in early summer. But regrowth will be slower.
Tools Needed for Pruning Tree Peonies
Have these tools ready before beginning:
- Bypass pruning shears for smaller stems
- Pruning saw or loppers for thicker wood
- Garden disinfectant to treat cuts
- Garbage bags for removing debris
Keep tools sanitized between cuts to prevent disease spread
How to Prune a Tree Peony Step-By-Step
Follow these simple tips to prune your tree peony like a pro
1. Remove All Dead Wood
The first priority is eliminating dead stems. These are unsightly and invite pests/disease. Cut back any dead wood to the base ororiginating bud. Removing dead growth improves air circulation and form.
2. Cut Back Overgrown Stems
If your tree peony has become lanky, leggy, or overgrown, now is the time for rejuvenation pruning. Identify wayward stems sticking out past the natural shape. Cut these unruly stems back to just above a healthy outward facing bud. This encourages bushier regrowth within the plant’s boundaries.
3. Thin Excess Interior Growth
Tree peonies tend to grow into thickets of woody stems, especially in the center. Thinning cuts remove inner stems to improve air flow and light penetration. Prioritize keeping healthy, younger exterior canes. Remove at least one older interior stem each year to gradually renovate overgrown plants.
4. Shape and Contain Size
Strategically trim branches to keep the plant’s shape compact. Cutting back longer stems by at least 1/3rd the length directs energy into lower buds. To reduce the plant’s footprint, cut offshoots spreading beyond the desired boundaries.
5. Clean Up Faded Flowers
The final step is deadheading spent blooms. Snip off wilted flowers just above a healthy lower leaf using sanitized shears. Tidying up keeps plants looking their best. Collect seed pods in fall if desired.
Avoiding Common Mistakes When Pruning Tree Peonies
- Never shear or prune heavily all at once – this can kill tree peonies. Take a gradual, minimalist approach over years.
- Don’t leave branch stubs – always cut back to a healthy outward facing bud.
- Skip heavy pruning in fall when frosts begin – only remove dead wood once dormant.
- Prevent wounds or disease transmission by sanitizing tools between cuts.
- Don’t pull off dead leaves – carefully cut them to avoid stem damage.
With the right technique and well-timed pruning, tree peonies will thrive for decades and produce their signature bold, lush blooms year after year. Follow these guidelines for pruning success!
Phytophthora Blight – Phytophthora cactorum (Fungus)
SYMPTOMS: Phytophthora blight is a soil-borne fungus. The stems at the base of the plant will begin to darken and then wilt and die. Leaves may appear drought stressed. The entire plant may rot making it easy to pull from the ground. The fungus can survive in the soil for years as long as moist conditions persist. Can be spread by garden tools and contaminated soil. It’s easy to mistake the start of this disease for drought because the symptoms are often worse when it doesn’t rain.
TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.
OUTLOOK: Phytophthora can kill peonies and other plants.
TREATING: Cut off the sick parts of the plant as soon as you see them, dipping the pruners in bleach solution (or Clorox wipes) between cuts to stop the disease from spreading. Clean up all debris around the plants, and throw all of this matter away – do not compost. According to Rutgers Diagnostic Lab, the fungicide Subdue can be used to treat Phytophthora on peonies. It should be applied according to the manufacturer’s directions. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. Improve soil drainage and prevent water from pooling near plants.
PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Leave at least 3 feet of space between peonies and keep the base of each plant clean and free of weeds to help air flow. Only water as needed, and always use drip irrigation in the morning. Never use overhead irrigation, and don’t water at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. To protect your peony plants from getting sick, pay extra attention when it rains in the early spring.
Sclerotinia Rot/Southern Blight (Fungus)
SYMPTOMS: Sclerotinia Rot is a soil-borne fungus. Rot begins at the base of the plant with water-soaked stem lesions. Leaves will turn yellow and die. It looks like white cotton and grows around the plant’s base and in the soil when it’s very humid. Formic acid fruiting bodies look like small groups of mustard seeds on the ground close to the plant’s base. They may eventually form a crust on the soil.
TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.
OUTLOOK: Sclerotina can kill peonies and other plants.
For treatment of Sclerotina Rot on peonies, Rutgers Diagnostic Lab suggests using either Heritage or Headway. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application. Be sure to treat both the plant and the soil. If that fails, remove diseased plants and the surrounding soil from your garden, do not compost. Sterilize all tools. Put clear plastic over the area and leave it there for two to three months in the summer heat. After this time, make sure the soil drains better and don’t plant anything for at least one season before you do.
PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Leave at least 3 feet of space between peonies and keep the base of each plant clean and free of weeds to help air flow. Only water as needed, and always use drip irrigation in the morning. Never use overhead irrigation, and don’t water at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. To protect your peony plants from getting sick, pay extra attention when it rains in the early spring.
A few viruses can also hurt peonies. These include the peony ringspot virus, leaf curl, Le Moine disease, and the mosaic virus. These are rare, difficult to cure, and it is generally recommended to remove infected plants from your garden.
SYMPTOMS: Poor growth and stunted growth. Leaves will have a mottled/mosaic appearance. Portions of the leaves can turn yellow and die. Can be spread by insects or tools.
TESTING: We encourage you to get your plants tested so you know exactly what you are dealing with. Send a sample to your State’s Agricultural University ‘s Plant Diagnostic Center for laboratory diagnosis and treatment recommendations. At Peony’s Envy we use both the Plant Diagnostic Laboratory of Rutgers NJAES and the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic.
OUTLOOK: Viral diseases can kill peonies and other plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants, do not compost.
PREVENTION: Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease. Peonies require the proper amount of sun, nutritious soil, good air circulation, and the right amount of water. Leave at least 3 feet of space between peonies and keep the base of each plant clean and free of weeds to help air flow. Only water as needed, and always use drip irrigation in the morning. Never use overhead irrigation, and don’t water at night. Never plant peonies in low-lying areas where soils flood. Amend soils prior to planting to ensure good drainage and proper nutrition. Use compost to maintain nutritious soil. To protect your peony plants from getting sick, pay extra attention when it rains in the early spring.
SYMPTOMS: Peony flowers being eaten. Chafer beetles look similar to Japanese beetles. They can be removed by hand or killed with almost any insecticide. Neem oil is an organic option, read the product label for more detailed instructions. Ants are a natural predator and chase away chafer beetles.
A wide variety of stressors can prevent peony buds from opening. This can be caused by things like bad soil, plants that aren’t fully grown, plants that are buried too deeply, too much mulch, not enough sun, and early spring frosts. Check the depth of your peony and adjust if necessary.
How to Prune a Tree Peony
FAQ
Should tree peonies be cut back?
How do you care for tree peonies after they flower?