English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is definitely a perennial plant. With its fragrant foliage and showy flowers, this attractive herb adds scent and beauty to gardens year after year.
What is a Perennial Plant?
A perennial is a plant that lives for multiple years, unlike an annual which completes its entire life cycle in one season. Perennials regrow from their roots each spring. Some perennial plants are short-lived, persisting just a few years. But others can continue growing and flowering indefinitely.
Herbaceous perennials have soft, green stems that die back to the ground over winter. The roots remain alive underground and send up new shoots when conditions are right. Woody perennials develop woody stems that persist above ground through the seasons.
Key Traits of English Lavender
Here are some of the characteristics that identify English lavender as a hardy long-lived perennial
- Grows 1-3 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide when mature
- Forms a dense, rounded mound
- Has slender, woody stems covered in narrow, gray-green leaves
- Produces lots of fragrant, pale purple flower spikes in summer
- Leaves and stems remain evergreen in warmer zones
- Dies back each winter in cold climates but regrows from the roots in spring
The Perennial Growth Habit
One of the easiest ways to identify a perennial plant is to observe what happens to it through the seasons:
- In spring, new green foliage emerges from the base and stems elongate and grow upwards.
- Flower buds form on the stems during early to mid summer. Then large numbers of colorful blooms open over an extended period.
- After flowering, stems and leaves start to wither and turn brown.
- By late fall, above ground growth has died back completely due to freezing temperatures.
- But the plant overwinters as an underground root system. It remains dormant in winter.
- When warm weather returns the following spring, vigorous new shoots sprout up from the roots. And the cycle begins again!
Optimal Growing Conditions
English lavender thrives when given the following care:
- Full sun exposure (at least 6 hours of direct sun daily)
- Sandy, gravelly soil that drains quickly
- Moderate watering approximately once per week until established, then less frequent deep watering during droughts
- Pruning annually in spring to shape the plant and again after flowering to remove spent blooms
- Mulching in cold winter climates for insulation
Perennial Qualities
Here are some other traits that make English lavender an outstanding perennial plant:
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Adaptable to a wide range of climates (hardy in zones 5-10)
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Drought tolerant once established
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Not bothered by pests or diseases
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Produces lots of flowers for cutting
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Attracts butterflies and pollinators
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Deer and rabbit resistant
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Tolerates poor soils as long as drainage is good
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Long lifespan of 10 years or longer
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Low maintenance requirements
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Handsome year-round appearance
Caring for English Lavender as a Perennial
English lavender requires minimal upkeep to flourish year after year. Follow these tips:
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Plant it in a spot that won’t get too wet in winter. Excellent drainage is key.
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Water young plants regularly until their root systems develop. Then water established plants only as needed during droughts.
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Apply winter mulch in cold climates to protect the roots from hard freezes.
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Prune lightly in spring and again after flowering to promote dense growth.
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Don’t fertilize, which can cause floppy growth and fewer blooms.
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Monitor for pests like aphids, thrips, or root rot and treat any issues promptly.
With its robust nature, English lavender is one of the easiest and most rewarding perennials for gardens. This beautiful, fragrant herb truly thrives when planted in the right spot and given minimal care. The plants repay you with years of spectacular summer blooms and delightful fragrance. It’s no wonder English lavender is a perennial favorite!
How to Grow English Lavender
English lavender grows best in dry, sandy, well drained soils. Planting in saturated or soggy soil should be avoided.
Apply 1 inch of coarse compost and incorporate 4 to 8 inches deep. Adding organic matter to the soil will create better air spaces, improve drainage, and ensure plant establishment.
Lavender can be grown from seed or cuttings. From seed, the cultivar “Lady” is recommended, especially if grown for herbal qualities. Hardy in zones 5 to 8, it will make it through zone 4 winters if it is mulched or grown in a south-facing spot.
Sow seeds 1/8 inch deep in soilless media and lightly cover seeds with perlite. Keep flats or pots watered, not allowing the seedling to become dry. It usually takes 14 to 21 days for seeds to sprout, and they do best at 70°F with a heating pad. If you keep plants in pots all year, make sure to move them every spring to a bigger pot with new potting soil. This ensures the plant will produce more flowers. Use a coarse potting soil with additional organic fertilizer. Most lavender produced commercially is started from cuttings taken from established plants. Take a cutting of a lavender plant and cut it just below a node (a leaf joint). Then, take off three to four of the lower leaves and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Place the cuttings in warm (70°F), damp potting soil. Keep moist but not wet. Roots form in 30-40 days, then transplant to a pot and continue to grow out.
Transplant new plants after the last spring frost. Fall planting works if there is 2 months of good weather so plants get established before winter. Lavender grows slowly in the fall, and plants won’t make it through the winter without strong roots and a lot of mulch. Space lavender plants 18-24 inches apart into light, well aerated, gravelly soil. Depending on the type, lavender grows about 1 to 2 feet tall and wide. It takes 3 years for it to reach its full size.
In hot regions, irrigation is needed for optimal productivity. Lavender has a rooting depth of 18-24 inches. In general, apply 1 gallon of water per plant per week after transplanting, until plants are established. Mature/established plants need ½ gallon of water every 2 weeks until flower bud formation. During flowering, water one or two times per week through harvest. Lavender is very drought tolerant once established, but grows produces more blooms with regular watering.
Lavender has low nutritional needs. If compost was added to the soil before planting, it shouldn’t need extra fertilizer for the first year. Over-fertilized plants produce more foliage, but less flowers. Too much fertilizer also makes plants vulnerable to disease and cold weather injury. Compost (1 inch under plants) is enough to feed the plants. One application of a slow release fertilizer (1 T/plant) covers the growing season’s needs.
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English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolias) thrives in full sun, well-drained soil with a pH of 6. 5-7. 5. Grow in full sun. Climates suitable for lavender range from zones 5 to 10 on the USDA hardiness scale. It does not perform well in wet or water-logged soils. Since seeds take a long time to sprout, this plant is usually spread by summer cuttings made from side shoots from the mother plant. Put cuttings 3 to 4 inches apart in moist, sterile sand soil in a cold frame with some lath to protect them. This will help you start new plants. Once the seedlings are a year old, plant them 18 to 24 inches apart in dry, light, gravelly soil after the last frost in the spring. Harvest flowers when they are bright and vivid.
English lavender can grow in zones 5 and most places in Utah, except for the coldest high mountain areas. Recommended varieties are Munstead and Hidcote. Other varieties also include: English, Hidcote Pink, Jean Davis, Sarah, Vera, and Lady. Newer hybrids that outperform the original are Grappenhall, Provence, Grosso, Dutch Mill, Abrialii and Seal. Not all varieties may be available locally. Consult reputable nurseries or specialty garden centers to ensure the availability of desired selection.
4 Year Lavender Update!
FAQ
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