There are two types of home landscapers when it comes to pruning shrubs and small trees: those who are too afraid to do any damage and prune too little, and those who over-prune in an effort to get the perfect shape for the hedge or shrub. Professional gardeners and experienced do-it-yourself landscapers know, though, that trimming about a third of the good wood during a major pruning session is the almost perfect way to prune. If you cut back more than that, you could hurt the plant or at least severely slow its growth. If you prune too little, on the other hand, you won’t really change anything about the shrub; it will just look worse.
As an avid gardener, I’m always seeking ways to keep my shrubs and bushes looking their best Proper pruning is essential for plant health and aesthetics But when is the right time to prune different types of bushes? Pruning at the wrong time can limit flowering, damage new growth, or spread disease.
In this article I’ll provide tips on pruning bushes in spring summer, fall and winter based on their growth habits. Follow this seasonal guide and you’ll keep your shrubs in top form.
Spring-Blooming Bushes
Many spring-flowering shrubs like lilacs, forsythia, and rhododendrons produce flowers on one-year-old wood Pruning these plants in fall or winter removes next year’s flower buds
For best results, prune spring bloomers right after flowering concludes. This allows you to remove spent blooms while avoiding the loss of developing flower buds. Deadheading also encourages rebloom on some plants.
Spring is also a good time to selectively thin older, unproductive wood at the base. This stimulates the growth of new flowering stems.
Summer-Blooming Bushes
Shrubs that flower in summer generally bloom on the current season’s growth. Popular examples include butterfly bush, hydrangea, spirea, rose of sharon, and vitex.
Prune these plants in late winter or early spring before new growth appears. This removes dead wood and shapes the plant without sacrificing flowers. Even drastically cutting them back will not inhibit summer blooming.
You can also prune summer-flowering shrubs immediately after flowering to tidy up the plant. But don’t prune later than mid-summer or you may reduce flower bud development for next year.
Fall-Flowering Bushes
Late-season bloomers like glossy abelia, witch hazel, and beautyberry set their flower buds on new wood formed in spring and early summer.
Prune these shrubs in winter or early spring before growth starts. Avoid pruning in mid-to-late summer which will decrease the number of flower buds.
As with spring bloomers, you can prune immediately after flowering to clean up the plant and encourage new growth.
Non-Flowering Bushes
Shrubs grown for foliage or form rather than flowers can be pruned as needed throughout the growing season. Good examples are boxwood, yew, and euonymus.
However, refrain from pruning in late fall. New growth this time of year is prone to winter damage. Stick to minor trimming and shaping during fall and do any major corrective pruning in late winter or early spring.
Fruiting Bushes
Shrubs valued for ornamental fruits like holly, viburnum, cotoneaster, and mountain ash should be pruned soon after fruiting concludes. This avoids removing next year’s flower/fruit buds. Late winter is ideal for more extensive renewal pruning.
Dormant Season Pruning
Any time when bushes are leafless and dormant is generally safe for pruning. Late winter just before active growth provides maximum visibility of branches and structure.
While spring and summer pruning focuses on deadheading and light maintenance, aim to improve shape, structure, and vigor during the dormant season. Thinning cuts that remove entire branches to the ground stimulate new growth.
Follow these tips and time your pruning correctly based on the type of shrub. Proper timing preserves natural flowering cycles and enhances the beauty of your landscape. With the right pruning approach, your bushes will thrive for years to come.
Why the 1/3 Rule?
For established shrubs and small trees, moderate pruning has the effect of stimulating new, vital growth. Plants live in a balance between the above-ground and below-ground parts. When the plant loses a lot of stems, especially at the top, it tries to get back to normal by sending up new growth. This keeps the top leaves in balance with the water and nutrients that the roots are pushing into them.
Regrowth is good in small amounts; it’s how plants heal, and it’s how pruning can wake up buds that are dormant. Too little leafy growth, on the other hand, makes a plant go into a state of shock or panic. At this point, it may also try to grow back from water sprouts or suckers, which can make the plant look ragged. Once suckering begins, it has a tendency to continue for quite some time.
Too little pruning, on the other hand, does little to stimulate any new growth at all. A light pruning might help shape the plant a little, but it won’t really encourage new stem growth like a good 1/3 pruning does.
Established Shrubs and Small Trees Only
The 1/3 rule applies only to fully established shrubs and small trees. An established plant is one that has fully overcome its transplant shock. Newly planted trees and shrubs should have at least one season to get their roots established before they are pruned heavily. With larger shrubs that have been transplanted, this shock may last several years. If a shrub needs extra watering when it’s not droughting, it’s still going through transplant shock and shouldn’t be pruned too much just yet. If you prune the tree too much or too soon, you could stunt its growth at a time when it needs lots of top growth to help its new roots grow.
Most shrubs and small ornamental trees can be pruned according to the 1/3 rule. But for larger shade trees, pruning should stop at no more than 1/4 of the total branches. Yes, strong pruning will also encourage new growth in shade trees, but not as much as it’s needed for multi-stemmed shrubs. Pruning trees regularly is still important, however, since it makes them less susceptible to wind damage.
How to Prune Bushes & Shrubs | Lawn & Garden Care
FAQ
Is there a bad time to trim bushes?
Is it better to prune shrubs in fall or spring?
What month should I start pruning?
Can you trim bushes in the summer?
Should you prune a bush?
Pruning flush with the main stem at a branch’s point of origin gives the shrub its best chance of healing from the wound. Pruning is essential for keeping trees and shrubs healthy and looking good, and in many cases, pruning a bush is a DIY-able project that a homeowner can perform with just a few good pruning tools.
Does pruning stop growth?
Pruning does not stop plant growth. In fact, pruning stimulates growth. The terminal bud (the bud at the end of a branch) exerts a strong chemical control over the lateral (side) buds lower on the stem. Hormones located in the terminal bud keep lateral buds dormant.
How does cutting a bush help a plant grow?
Thinning: These cuts remove undesired growth, cutting off entire branches at the point of origin to result in a more open plant. This openness lets more sunlight and air into the center of the bush, resulting in more interior growth (leaves) along the stem and less disease (due to increased air flow).