A week ago, I showed a group of local Master Gardeners around our gardens. At that point, the raised bed area was a mix of rowcover and weeds. All the crops were hidden by rowcover, and all the beds that could be seen were full of weeds. So much has changed in a week. We pulled weeds out of all the beds, tilled a lot of them, and took the row cover off of our strawberry beds and the new cabbage and broccoli plants. We’ve even found time to hoe the planted beds and weed and thin the three beds of beets.
We had more struggles with our broccoli. A few weeks ago, I told you about the moles that were taking things from our first broccoli flats to use as nesting material. We dealt with that, planted out what we had left, and moved our second planting to the coldframe. Something browsed on them. Deer? Rabbits? Groundhogs? We sprayed the plants with a stinky deer repellant and scattered hot pepper on them. And covered them at night. Now we’ve planted those out and put the third planting in the cold frame. So far, so good.
There have been a few cold nights, which is why I had to move the row cover over to the strawberries to protect the flowers from frost. ).
But overall the season is warming up. After lots of waiting we are finally getting asparagus. A lot of spring signs happened at once: the lilac is in bloom, the morning glories and smartweed have sprouted, the crimson clover cover crop is beginning to flower, and I’ve heard whippoorwills at night.
The white oak leaves have definitely exceeded the size of squirrels’ ears. This is our sign to sow sweet corn. We did that yesterday. Bodacious, 77-days to maturity, yellow, great flavor for corn this early. We now spread our bets by planting the second half of the patch three days after the first half. This also lets us harvest the crop later. You may have heard myths about transplanting sweet corn, but it is actually possible. People who live in harsh climates don’t have to give up hope. When we plant our first corn outside, we usually make some plugs on the same day. These are used to fill in any gaps during the first grow. If nothing bad happens and there aren’t any gaps to worry about, we give the transplants to local gardeners who didn’t have as much luck or didn’t have time to direct sow their own.
We use 200-cell Styrofoam Speedling flats (1″, 2. 5 cm cells) with one corn kernel in each cell. We float them in a tank of water until we set them out. Some vegetable seedlings would drown if continuously in water, but corn does not. It is important to transplant the corn before the plant gets too big and the taproot takes off. Two- to three-inch (5–7. 5-cm) plants seem OK. The plugs transplant easily using butter knives.
Corn has no tolerance to frost. However, seedlings that are less than two weeks old and not very tall may be able to avoid a late spring frost if the growing point is still below ground. In a spring that looks like it will be warm and dry, you can plant up to two or three weeks before the last frost date. Having some transplant plugs for a backup helps reduce the risk level.
Many people are confused about one aspect of hybrid corn varieties: there are different genotypes, and if you plant a mix of different types by accident, it can result in corn that is starchy and tastes bad. Ignore those cryptic catalog notes at your peril! here’s the Cliff Notes:
Normal sugary (su or ns) types taste like old-fashioned corn, but they are sweeter than open pollinated types. The sweetness goes away pretty quickly after harvest, though. Not a problem for home gardeners who can cook the corn they harvested earlier that day. Most can germinate well in cool soil.
Different types of sugary-enhanced (se) and sugary enhanced homozygous (se or se-se) corn are softer than sugary-enhanced (su) corn and take longer to turn starchy after harvest. Most, especially the (se+) types, are sweeter than (su) types. We grow (se) and (su) types, and avoid the others – sweetness and simplicity!.
Nearly all newer sweet corn types rely on one of two recessive genes, su or sh2. Cross-pollination with other corn groups will produce the dominant genetics of field corn, that is, starch not sugar. Don’t mix Super Sweet sh2 types with any other corn. Also, do not plant Indian corn, popcorn, flint or dent corn, or any other type of corn within 180 m (600 ft) of your sweet corn. For this reason we grow only sweet corn in our garden. In case you are tempted by variety descriptions of the newer types, though, here’s more about them:
The Super Sweet (sh2) varieties, also known as shrunken, are very sweet and slow to become starchy. They have very poor cold soil germination. The kernels are smaller than other corns, giving this type its name.
Synergistic (se-se-se-sh2) types are combinations of genetics from several genotypes. Each ear has 75 percent (se) kernels and 25 percent (sh2) kernels. They are flavorful, tender and sweet, but only when they are ripe. If picked too soon, they are a watery disappointment.
“Augmented shrunken” types contain the sh2 gene and some of the tenderness from the se types.
We’re looking forward to plenty of sweet corn this year – we’re off to a good start!
As a gardener, deciding when to transplant your young corn seedlings can be a tricky balancing act. Transplant too early, and the tender shoots may not survive outdoors. Wait too long, and your seedlings can become rootbound or stunted. Follow some simple guidelines on timing and technique, and you’ll end up with vigorous, productive transplants that yield an abundant corn harvest.
Why Transplant Corn?
Many gardeners direct-seed corn right into the garden bed. But transplanting offers some advantages:
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Get a head start on the season for earlier harvests Start seeds indoors up to 3-4 weeks before your last expected frost date.
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Avoid seeds being washed away by heavy rains. Secure starts are already established when planted outside.
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Control germination rates and reduce wasted seeds. It’s easier to monitor seedlings and fill gaps when transplanting.
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Reduce weeding and maintenance, Transplants get a better start without emerging weed competition
Timing is Key
Corn seedlings grow quickly so the ideal transplant timing is narrow. Follow these tips
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Seed indoors 10-14 days before transplanting. Corn outgrows small cells rapidly.
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Move seedlings outdoors within 2-3 weeks after germination. Don’t let roots become bound or tangled.
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Harden off plants for 7-10 days before transplanting. Gradually expose to sun, wind, and temps.
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Transplant after daytime temps stay above 60°F and nighttime lows above 50°F. Corn needs warm soil.
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Transplant before seedlings exceed 6″ in height. Tall, lanky plants suffer more transplant shock.
Transplanting Technique
Use proper technique when moving seedlings to avoid setbacks:
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Water plants well the day before transplanting. Moist soil helps prevent root damage.
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Handle new plants very gently. Grasp leaves, not stems, which are fragile.
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Make holes slightly wider and deeper than root balls. Set plant at same depth as before.
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Firm soil gently around each transplant. Leave no air pockets around roots.
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Water immediately and shade for a few days until established. Avoid fertilizer initially.
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Space plants 12-15” apart in rows 3’ apart. Corn needs good air circulation when growing.
Optimizing Your Seedlings
Give your infant corn plants the best start:
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Sow 1-2 seeds per cell in trays with large 2” cells. This prevents rootbinding before transplanting.
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Use sterile seed starter mix. Corn needs light, nutrient-rich starter soil.
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Place trays in warm spot (70-80°F) to quicken germination. Cover trays with plastic domes to retain moisture.
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Once sprouted, move to sunny area and remove domes. Ensure adequate ventilation and warmth.
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If growing under lights, situate bulbs 2-3” above plants. Keep lights on 14-16 hours per day.
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Fertilize seedlings weekly with diluted liquid fertilizer once first true leaves appear.
Frequency of Entities:
url: 2
transplant: 7
corn: 14
seedlings: 6
seeds: 3
plants: 5
outdoors: 3
timing: 2
grow: 1
technique: 2
Growing Corn – Part 1 Planting and Germinating
FAQ
How tall should corn be before transplanting?
When can corn seedlings go outside?
What temperature can corn seedlings tolerate?
Do corn seedlings need to be thinned?
When should I plant corn seeds?
The best time to plant corn seeds is in late spring or early summer after the last frost date in your area. Corn seedlings are quite fragile and can’t handle frost. So you’ll want to wait until the soil has warmed up adequately. Most farms plant their corn in May. How far apart should I space the corn seeds?
When to transplant corn plants?
When to transplant corn plants The best time to transplant corn plants is when the seedlings have developed two to three true leaves. This is typically about two weeks after germination. III. How to transplant corn plants 1. Prepare the planting site by digging a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the roots of the corn plant. 2.
How to transplant a corn plant?
How to transplant corn plants 1. Prepare the planting site by digging a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the roots of the corn plant. 2. Gently loosen the roots of the corn plant and remove it from the pot or seedling tray. 3. Place the corn plant in the hole and backfill the hole with soil. 4. Water the corn plant thoroughly. 5.
How do you plant a corn plant?
Prepare the new planting site by digging a hole that is the same depth as the corn plant’s root ball. Loosen the soil around the corn plant’s roots. Gently lift the corn plant out of the ground and place it in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Water the corn plant thoroughly.
