Okra is a warm-weather vegetable that thrives in hot and humid climates. While it can be planted directly in the garden starting seeds indoors and transplanting seedlings often leads to earlier and higher yields. Determining the optimal timing for transplanting okra seedlings is key to getting a prolific harvest.
Why Transplant Okra
Okra can be sown directly in the garden once daytime temperatures are consistently above 65°F. However transplanting has some advantages
- Gets a head start on the growing season for earlier harvests
- Avoids exposure to diseases, pests, and weather fluctuations when seeds are started indoors
- Gives you more control over spacing and arrangement in the garden
- Reduces risk of seeds being dug up by birds or damaged by heavy rains
When started indoors and properly hardened off, transplants experience less shock when moved to the garden. This results in faster establishment and growth.
When to Start Seeds Indoors
Okra seeds should be started indoors 4-6 weeks before the last expected spring frost. This gives enough time for seedlings to develop 2-4 true leaves and a decent root system prior to transplanting.
Those in warmer climates can push this timeline up by a week or two. Just be sure to harden off plants properly before exposing them to outdoor conditions.
Okra needs consistently warm soil and air temperatures to thrive. Transplanting too early while nights are still cool will stunt growth.
Optimal Transplanting Time
The ideal window for transplanting okra seedlings is when daytime highs reach at least 70°F and nighttime lows are above 50°F. This usually occurs 4-6 weeks after the last frost.
Some gardeners transplant okra 2 weeks before the last expected frost with protection such as floating row covers. But it’s generally best to wait until the minimum soil temperature reaches 60°F.
Pay close attention to long range weather forecasts when scheduling transplants. Okra growth will be inhibited if temperatures drop or a cold snap occurs right after transplanting.
Tips for Transplanting Okra Successfully
Follow these tips to ensure okra transplants get off to a vigorous start:
- Harden off seedlings for 7-10 days by gradually exposing them to sun, wind, and lower temperatures
- Transplant on a calm, cloudy day, in late afternoon/evening to avoid hot sun
- Thoroughly water seedlings 1-2 hours before transplanting
- Dig holes and mix in compost prior to transplanting
- Carefully remove seedlings from pots without disturbing roots
- Plant at same depth it was growing in the container
- Space plants 12-18 inches apart in rows 2-3 feet apart
- Water transplants thoroughly right after planting and daily for the first week
- Consider using row cover for protection from cold nights
- Side dress with compost or fertilizer once established
Signs Seedlings Are Ready for Transplanting
Okra seedlings should have 2-4 true leaves and be 3-6 inches tall before transplanting into the garden. Other signs they are ready include:
- Roots beginning to grow out of drainage holes
- Stems looking crowded or compressed in seedling cells/pots
- Leaves appearing pale or yellow, indicating they need more nutrition
Avoid transplanting leggy or root-bound okra plants as they tend to struggle more. Either start new seeds or trim leggy growth before transplanting.
Direct Sowing Okra
While transplanting okra gives many advantages, some gardeners prefer direct sowing. Seeds can be planted 1⁄2-1 inch deep where plants are to grow once soil warms to 65°F.
Space seeds 12-18 inches apart in rows spaced 2-3 feet apart. Thin seedlings to the strongest plant once they emerge.
Direct sown okra is less disturbed but can take 1-2 weeks longer to mature than transplanted seedlings.
Determining the ideal transplanting time is an important factor for okra growing success. Aim to transplant seedlings on a calm, cloudy day once daytime highs reach 70°F and nighttime lows stay above 50°F. This usually occurs 4-6 weeks after the last spring frost date. Pay close attention to weather forecasts and be prepared to protect young transplants if colder temperatures return. Follow proper hardening off and planting procedures to prevent transplant shock. With the right conditions and care, transplanted okra will establish quickly for robust growth and heavy pod production throughout the season.
Crop Requirements and Yield
Okra does best in well-drained, fertile, loamy soils with high organic matter. Wet clay soils can drown the plants. It grows best with a pH between 6. 5 and 7. 0, although as high as 7. 6 is still OK.
5 gm sows 50’ (15 m) at 6” (15 cm) spacing. Average yields are about 50-100 lb/100’ (7. 6-15 kg/10 m). We grow 90’ (27 m) for 100 people, which provides enough for some pickling too.
Rodale’s 600 Answers says that you can speed up germination by freezing the seed overnight and then soaking it in hot water for half an hour before planting it. To get your seed to sprout, it needs to be warm enough. At 88°F (31°C), you can soak the seed in water for 8 hours.
When we direct sow, we “station-sow” – we put three seeds ½-1” (1-2. 5 cm) deep at each spot where we want a plant to grow. Before the last frost, on May 1, we cover the rows to keep the seeds safe. Three to four weeks after the last frost, when the soil temperature averages 65°F (20°C), we direct sow.
When seedlings have 3-4 leaves, we thin to the strongest seedling. Okra is sturdier if direct sown, rather than transplanted, but you work with the climate you’ve got!.
Usually we transplant, especially if we are intercropping. For transplants we sow April 15, using soil blocks or Winstrip 50-cell flats. When plants were only 6 inches (15 cm) tall, their tap roots could be three times as long! When they were fully grown, the tap root could be 4½ ft (1 4 m). To avoid stunting the taproot, get the small plants in the ground as soon as you can, carefully.
We move starts that are 3 to 4 weeks old—a plant with 3 or 4 leaves is best—every 18 inches (45 cm) apart in the middle of a bed. We transplant May 11, 10 days later than the direct-sowing date. We used to leave more space between rows, but we found that it was better for yield when we left more space between rows, like a hedge.
Some growers plant as close as 6” (15 cm) in the row, with 5’ (1. 5m) between rows, or plant two rows of plants 12″ (30 cm) apart, with more space between the beds. Thick planting requires very fertile soil, and risks diseases from poor air circulation. Spreading plants out far apart can make them more branchy and give each plant more pods, but it doesn’t always mean that there are more pods in a given area. It might mean that the harvest starts later because the plant doesn’t flower right away.
Okra is slow-growing until hot weather arrives. Okra grows straight up, so we sometimes use this to our advantage and move it into a bed of early cabbage. We transplant cabbage in two rows along a 4’ (1. 2 m) bed on March 10, and the okra in a single row down the middle on May 11. We mulch the cabbage, which cools the soil, which is bad for the okra, so don’t do this if you’re planting directly! The cabbages are small at first, and the okra grows in the middle of the bed. As the plants grow, we remove outer leaves of the cabbage that might overshadow the okra. Finally, we harvest the cabbage and leave the okra to grow to full size. This method saves space, and efficiently uses our time to help two crops with one weeding.
This post is part of what I have written about okra in my book Sustainable Market Farming. Buy the book to read the rest, which talks about crop rotation, pests and diseases, harvesting, and taking care of okra after it’s been picked.
See my review of Chris Smith’s book The Whole Okra. Chris has grown 125 varieties of okra, and still counting, and cooked it in many different recipes. In his book, he talks about how to use the oil from the seeds and the leaves, how to make drinking straws out of okra stems, how to make okra seed tempeh and okra marshmallow treats, as well as the history and geography of okra and its medical and industrial uses. Here are instructions on how to freeze the sudden abundance of okra that comes up in the summer, pickle it (either by fermenting it or using vinegar), and dry it (best when strung on dental floss). Best of all are the okra chips. Chris has a video of taste testing on YouTube, https://www. youtube. com/watch?v=sAy0pouxlME.
| Pams Books |
How to transplant okra / ladies finger seedlings
FAQ
How big should okra seedlings be before transplanting?
Does okra like being transplanted?
How to transfer okra seedlings?
Can you plant okra seedlings deeper?
Can okra be transplanted?
Transplant okra to the garden after seedlings are at least 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) tall. Set plants 24 inches (60 cm) apart in rows at least 24 inches apart. Add aged compost, aged manure, and organic matter to planting beds in advance of transplanting. Okra prefers a soil pH range of 6.0 to 6.8. Grow okra in full sun for the best yield.
Should okra seeds be transplanted early?
Sometimes seeds can also grow roots earlier. Once the seedlings have enough size you can clean your garden and prefer for transplanting. You must transplant okra seedlings either early in the morning or much better in the afternoon. Too much sunlight can cause damage to seedlings.
When should I plant okra?
For planting okra, I wait until the soil temperature is just right, above 65°F, which usually means planting a couple of weeks after the last frost in early spring. I sow seeds half an inch deep, keeping an eye on germination rates to thin out later.
How do you transplant okra seedlings?
To successfully transplant okra seedlings, choose a sunny spot in the garden and prepare the soil by making holes spaced 18 to 24 inches apart. Place the seedlings with soil on their roots into the holes and cover them with soil. Water the seedlings immediately after transplanting to prevent transplant shock.