Poppies might be the most swoon-worthy flower ever. Their delicate blooms unfurl each morning and bring delight to all who encounter them.
Pollinators also love poppies. I like to sneak out to the garden early in the morning and wait by the patch of poppies. As soon as the sun starts to rise, the flowers pop out of their pods, and honeybees start to crawl all over them. It’s humbling, fascinating and quite possibly the best way to start the day.
But let’s get this out in the open: Most types of poppies are NOT good cut flowers. At best, they will last 2 days in the vase… but they are so beautiful, I don’t care!.
As I mentioned above, most poppies are not a good cut flower. However, they are so irresistible that people insist on cutting them anyway.
It’s helpful to think of Poppies as an “Event” flower, not a “Bouquet” flower. They’re great for events that only need to last one or two days, like a wedding or dinner party. They are usually not a good choice for a bouquet that will be shown for a week or more.
1. Shirley Poppies (Papaver rhoeas): Also called Field Poppy, Corn Poppy or Common Poppy. Grown as an Annual. These are easy to grow, but not long lasting. Expect about 2-3 days maximum. 1 day is more realistic.
2. Breadseed Poppies (Papaver somniferum): Grown as an annual. These are mainly grown for their interesting seed pods, not as a cut flower. Allow the flower to bloom and die, then harvest the pods for dried arrangements.
3. Oriental Poppies (Papaver orientale): A perennial type of poppy that is popular for landscape use. Usually not used as a cut flower, but also has interesting pods.
4. Iceland Poppies (Pavaver nudicaule): The best type of poppy for cut flower use. It’s technically a perennial, but it doesn’t like being hot, so most people grow it as an annual or biennial. Iceland Poppies have the longest vase life of all the poppies, about 5 days if they are picked at the right time and treated to make the vase life longer (more on that later).
In my experience, Iceland Poppies are more temperamental to start from seed than other poppies. If you are just starting out, I suggest that you stick to Shirley Poppies and Breadseed Poppies until you get better.
I swear, the harder you try to grow them, the worse they do. But if you throw the seeds into the air out of anger, they will grow like crazy! Doesn’t seem to like being bothered.
Poppies are a great candidate for the “hands off” growing method of Winter Sowing. I’ve had much success with growing Poppies this way. You can find out more about it HERE.
However, they can be grown as transplants. As transplants, grow them in trays. Make sure to “bottom water” the tray by putting it in a pan of water. Overhead watering can wash away the tiny seeds.
Put seeds in a bowl or jar, lick a toothpick, and dip it in the seeds. This is called the “toothpick method.” Transfer seeds to your prepared trays) or you can evenly sprinkle the seeds over the tray.
Direct Sowing is the easiest method. Since the seeds are very small, all you have to do is sprinkle them like fairy dust over the area where you want them to grow.
Where you live determines how you direct sow poppies. It might work best to prepare your growing area and sprinkle the seeds in the fall if you live in Zone 6 or warmer. They will lay dormant over the winter and germinate in the early spring.
Spread the seeds in the ground as soon as the ground thaws in the spring (March for most of us) if you live in Zone 5 or colder. They can handle frost and even some snow.
Obviously, when you sprinkle seeds over an area, it’s difficult to control the spacing. I’ve found my Poppies don’t seem to mind VERY crowded conditions and don’t bother thinning them out.
The plants will keep blooming until it gets too hot, which around here is mid-July, if flowers are picked and spent blooms are “deadheaded.” Of course, you can always leave them and allow the seed heads to form.
For the longest lasting blooms, Poppies need to be harvested at the correct stage. They go from “not quite ready” to “too late!” in minutes, not hours.
Poppies should be harvested at the “cracked bud” stage. This is right before the flowers “pop” out of their casings. You’ll be able to see the color of the bloom through the crack in the casing.
The bloom will open up in the vase and you’ll get the longest vase life possible this way.
As soon as they pop out of their casing, Poppies are covered in pollinators…. And unfortunately, once they have been pollinated, they are basically useless as a cut flower. If the Poppy is fully open, don’t bother harvesting it. Leave it for the bees instead.
Be sure to cut deeply right into the base of the plant. Deep cuts signal the plants to produce MORE flowers to replace the one you just cut.
Immediately after harvest, sear the stem ends of the poppies. The stem ends drip sap. Searing seals them and makes them last longer in the vase. You can sear them out in the field while you’re harvesting or as soon as you get home.
After searing, place in cool water and keep them in a cool, dark place until ready to arrange.
Sign up for my online course, “Backyard Cutting Garden 101,” if you really want to grow the garden of your dreams this year. You’ll find everything you need to plan, grow, harvest and arrange your stunning blooms. I can’t WAIT to help you grow! Click on the button below for all the details.
With their cheerful blooms and carefree growth, poppies are a gardener’s delight. Both annual and perennial varieties self-seed readily, popping up in sometimes inconvenient spots. This leads many gardeners to wonder – can I transplant poppies in spring once they sprout?
While possible, transplanting poppy plants takes some caution. Understanding poppy roots and growth habits will prepare you for the challenges. With care, poppies can be relocated successfully from spring through fall.
Poppy Root Systems Make Transplanting Tricky
A poppy’s long taproot makes it reluctant to be disturbed. This carrot-like root digs deep into the soil establishing the plant. Poppies form these roots quickly as seedlings.
So when transplanting poppies, you must excavate as much of the taproot as possible Try to keep the root intact and undamaged during relocation.
Annual poppies are especially sensitive because their lifespan is short. So growth interruptions from transplanting can prevent them from flowering that season.
Perennial poppies also dislike root disturbances. But with their longer lifespan, they can bounce back after a setback.
How to Transplant Poppies in Spring
Transplant poppies on a cloudy, cool spring day to reduce wilting. Water the plants well the day before.
Follow these steps for moving poppies:
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Identify seedlings when they have 2-4 true leaves. Roots are still short at this stage.
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Water the soil around the poppy seedling to make digging easier.
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Using a hand trowel, dig deep and wide around the seedling. Try to extract the whole taproot if possible.
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Carefully lift the seedling with the soil still attached to the root.
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Place into pre-dug hole at same depth it was growing previously.
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Fill in around plant and water well.
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Provide shade for the first few days until established.
Annual poppies that survive transplanting may bloom a bit later than normal. But they should recover by summer.
Perennial oriental and Icelandic poppies may sulk after spring transplanting. But they should revive by fall and flourish next year.
Transplanting Established Poppies in Spring
Mature perennial poppies with multiple stems and blooms resent disturbances. Their long taproots and fibrous secondary roots intertwine over time.
But sometimes established clumps need division or relocation in spring. Here are tips to help them cope:
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Wait until after blooming finishes to move mature plants.
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Water and shade the poppies for 1-2 weeks before and after transplanting.
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Using two garden forks inserted back-to-back, pry the root mass apart into sections.
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Keep as much rooted soil intact around each division as possible.
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Replant divisions at original depth in prepared holes.
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Mulch and water transplants regularly until they recover.
Followup fall transplanting is gentler when plants are dormant. But with care, even large poppies can be moved in spring if needed.
Alternatives to Spring Transplanting
Since poppies strongly dislike root disturbances, follow these tips to avoid transplanting:
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Direct sow seeds where you want plants to grow. Cover or thin seedlings later rather than moving them.
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Identify and relocate self-sown seedlings in early spring while roots are small.
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Allow poppies to self-seed freely. Enjoy them where they sprout up naturally.
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Save transplanting for fall when plants are going dormant.
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Sow annuals late in one spot to enjoy blooms, then pull them when finished.
Key Takeaways on Spring Poppy Transplants
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Identify and move seedlings when they have just 2-4 true leaves for best success.
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Water plants well the day before and after transplanting poppies.
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Dig deep and wide to extract as much taproot as possible when moving plants.
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Transplant mature, established poppies with great care to limit root damage.
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Reduce transplant shock by moving poppies before they bloom in spring.
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Understand poppies strongly dislike root disturbances when considering transplanting.
With extra diligence, poppies can be carefully relocated in spring. But avoiding transplants altogether is easier on both you and the plants. Sow seeds thoughtfully and let nature take its course for best results with these charming flowers.
Can you Transplant Oriental Poppies? Watch me do it!
FAQ
Do poppies transplant well?
When can you move poppies?
Can you plant poppies in the spring?
Where is the best place to plant poppies?
Can You transplant poppy seedlings?
Yes, you can transplant Poppy. Poppies do best when they are divided or transplanted in the early spring or fall. It is not recommended to plant poppies in the summer. When planting poppies be careful not to cover the seed with dirt. Simply press them into the soil and they will sprout in a couple of weeks. How do you take care of poppy seedlings?
When should you transplant a perennial poppy?
Transplant perennial poppies when the plant stops blooming in late summer or early autumn. For best results, wait for a cool, overcast day, as transplanting on a hot day places additional stress on the roots. Dig a circle around the poppy, 8 to 10 inches from the plant, using a shovel or spade with a sharp blade.
Do poppies need to be transplanted on an overcast day?
Transplant poppies on an overcast day so they have time to adjust to the bed before being subjected to direct sunlight. Be careful not to break the roots of the poppies, as this will kill the plants. If the plants are stuck in a pot, soak the soil two hours before transplanting to help loosen them.
Can you plant poppies in the summer?
Poppies do best when they are divided or transplanted in the early spring or fall. It is not recommended to plant poppies in the summer. When planting poppies be careful not to cover the seed with dirt. Simply press them into the soil and they will sprout in a couple of weeks. How do you take care of poppy seedlings? Poppy plants need little care.
