Do you want to grow garlic that wins prizes? Do you want to make really big garlic bulbs? Garlic grows best in the best conditions, and with a little extra care, your crop can get much bigger.
Picture: Tiny but cute Siberian bulb on the left and large elegant German Red bulb on the right. Wouldnt you rather grow the bigger bulb? The smaller bulb was grown using a tiny clove.
With a little work and prep, you can grow huge gourmet garlic for yourself, top chefs, high-end restaurants, CSAs, and farmer’s markets. It takes almost the same effort to cultivate a large as a small bulb.
Hardneck gourmet garlic can sell for $8-$30 pound (depending on market and quality). Careful marketing can offer you the best prices for your crop. Check out our page on how to grow organic garlic or our guide on how to grow garlic for some basic tips. Then read these tips to learn how to grow better garlic.
Growing large, delicious garlic bulbs in your own garden is very rewarding. The pungent flavor and aroma of homegrown garlic is far superior to grocery store varieties. With some planning and care, you can harvest huge garlic bulbs from your garden year after year.
Why Grow Your Own Garlic?
There are many great reasons to grow your own garlic:
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Better flavor – Homegrown garlic has a richer more complex flavor than store-bought bulbs. The flavor is also fresher since you control the harvest time.
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Save money – Purchasing garlic sets or seed bulbs is an upfront cost, but the savings add up quickly compared to buying garlic at the supermarket
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Grow uncommon varieties – You can find interesting heirloom garlic varieties that are hard to find in stores This allows you to experiment with different garlic flavors,
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Know your food source – By growing your own garlic, you can ensure it is grown organically and handled properly after harvest.
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Grow bigger bulbs – With the right care and timing, the bulbs you grow can be 2-3 times the size of commercially grown garlic.
Choosing the Best Garlic Variety
There are two main types of garlic – softneck and hardneck. Hardneck garlic generally produces larger bulbs with more intense flavor. Popular hardneck varieties include Purple Stripe, Rocambole, and Porcelain.
Softneck garlic has smaller cloves but is easier to braid. Good softneck choices are Artichoke and Silverskin.
For the biggest bulbs, look for hardneck garlic varieties suited to your climate. In colder regions, try Music, Russian Red, or German Extra Hardy. In warmer areas, Early Red Italian and Creole garlic grow well.
If you save bulbs for replanting, choose only the largest, healthiest ones each season. Over time, this selects for strains adapted to your garden.
Preparing the Soil
Garlic needs nutrient-rich, well-drained soil for optimal growth. Amend acidic soil with lime several weeks before planting. Incorporate 2-4 inches of compost or well-rotted manure. You can also mix in a balanced organic fertilizer.
Raised beds are ideal for growing garlic. The loose, fertile soil in a raised bed allows the bulbs to swell to their full potential.
A soil test can pinpoint any nutrient deficiencies. Garlic thrives in soil with a pH between 6.2-6.8.
When and How to Plant Garlic
Fall Planting
In cold winter climates, plant garlic in the fall about 4-6 weeks before the first expected frost. This allows the roots to develop before winter dormancy.
Separate bulbs into individual cloves. Plant the largest unpeeled cloves root-side down, 2-3 inches deep and 6 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart.
After planting, mulch heavily with straw to insulate the soil. Remove mulch in spring as shoots emerge.
Spring Planting
In warm winter areas, garlic can be planted in early spring. Wait until soil temperatures reach 40°F.
Follow the same planting depths and spacing as for fall planting. Because roots have less time to develop, water spring plantings more frequently.
Caring for Growing Garlic
Garlic needs 1-2 inches of water per week. Less water is needed in cool, damp climates. More irrigation is required in hot, dry regions.
Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds. Be careful not to bury the bulbs.
Side-dress with a nitrogen fertilizer when shoots are 6 inches tall. Fish emulsion, blood meal, or compost tea provide organic options.
Garlic prefers consistent soil moisture and temperatures between 60-75°F. Hot, dry conditions will produce smaller bulbs.
Remove any flowers (scapes) that emerge in early summer. This allows the plant to focus energy on the bulbs, not seeds.
Harvesting Garlic
Stop watering when the bottom 3-4 leaves on plants turn brown. Allow 2-3 weeks for bulbs to finish ripening.
Test readiness by gently digging up a bulb and checking the papery covering. Harvest when it’s intact and skins are not separating.
Carefully dig up entire plants with a garden fork. Brush off soil but don’t wash bulbs.
Curing Garlic for Storage
Curing improves garlic’s flavor and storability. After harvesting, tie stems in loose bundles and hang in a dry, shaded spot.
Cure for 2-3 weeks until outer skins are papery and cloves are firm. Keep humidity low and air circulation high.
Trim off roots and stems to 1⁄2 inch. Wipe off any remaining dirt. Remove any bulbs with signs of mold or damage.
Store cured garlic in mesh bags or open crates in a cool (55-60°F), dark place. Properly cured and stored, garlic will last 5-7 months.
Troubleshooting Small Bulbs
Sometimes garlic bulbs don’t grow as large as expected. Here are some common reasons and solutions:
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Dense soil – Improve drainage by mixing in compost; grow in raised beds.
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Insufficient water – Garlic needs consistent moisture during bulb formation. Mulch and irrigate.
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High temperatures – Protect plants from heat with shade cloth or mulch that keeps soil cooler.
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Low fertility – Have soil tested and amend accordingly. Side-dress with organic fertilizer.
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Residue from prior crops – Rotate planting location to prevent disease; solarize soil.
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Planting too late – Ensure garlic is planted 4-6 weeks before first frost in fall.
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Leaving scapes on – Removing scapes means more energy goes to the bulbs.
With the right garlic variety, soil preparation, and care throughout the growing season, you can harvest huge, delicious garlic bulbs. Growing your own garlic may take some trial and error, but the flavor payoff is immense.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should you plant garlic?
In cold climates, plant garlic in fall 4-6 weeks before first frost. In warm winter areas, plant in early spring once soil reaches 40°F.
How much space do garlic plants need?
Space garlic cloves 6 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart. Each clove will grow into one bulb.
What soil conditions do garlic plants prefer?
Garlic thrives in loose, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.2-6.8. Mix in several inches of compost before planting.
Should you remove garlic scapes?
Yes, removing the curly flower stalks (scapes) redirects the plant’s energy into bulb growth instead of seeds.
What causes small bulbs in garlic?
Small bulbs can result from dense or nutrient-poor soil, extreme heat, insufficient irrigation, diseases from crop residues, or late planting.
When is garlic ready to harvest?
Garlic is ready to harvest when the bottom 3-4 leaves turn brown and papery bulb coverings are intact. Dig carefully with a garden fork.
How long does harvested garlic last in storage?
Garlic cured properly in a cool, dry place will last for 5-7 months in storage. Storing at room temperature reduces shelf life.
Can you plant garlic from the grocery store?
Yes, organic garlic from the grocery store can be planted as long as it has not been treated to inhibit sprouting. Look for large, fresh bulbs.
What’s the difference between hardneck and softneck garlic?
Hardneck garlic produces larger cloves and has a richer flavor. Softneck varieties yield more individual cloves and are better for braiding.
Conclusion
With some planning and attentive care throughout the season, you can enjoy an abundant harvest of extra-large, great-tasting garlic from your own garden. Pay close attention to selecting an ideal variety, soil preparation, planting at the optimal time, maintaining consistent moisture, and proper curing. Avoid common pitfalls like extreme heat, dense soil, or failure to remove scapes. With experience, you can consistently grow huge, succulent garlic bulbs loaded with flavor.
Prepare soil well:
Soil should be loose, loamy and easy to dig. Garlic needs well drained soil or it will rot. Add manure or compost before fall planting. Our garlic bulbs grow the biggest in the part of the field where the soil has been changed to include more organic matter (horse manure mixed with sawdust and cow manure). German Red especially likes rich soil. The rest of our field has about 6% organic matter and grows well, but the bulbs are a bit smaller. Take a soil test to check for major and minor nutrients. Garlic normally needs extra nitrogen (blood meal is a good organic source of nitrogen). Supplement with nitrogen after planting and several times during the growing season. Stop nitrogen supplementation before garlic scapes in late spring or early summer. Too much nitrogen at this time can cause excess leaf growth at the expense of bulb growth.
Another important supplement is potassium (K). Potassium increases size of bulb and total garlic yield. Volk and Stern (2009) found that the amount of potassium in the soil was linked to the size and weight of fresh garlic bulbs.
Take precautions based on your climate:
Garlic adapts to where it is grown. Bulb wrapper color and intensity vary depending on where garlic is grown (Volk and Stern 2009). This is called phenotypic plasticity. We also notice a difference in garlic bulb color depending on the year. For example, this year (2013 harvest) our German Red had white striped wrappers. Normally the German Red is much darker with red and brown tones.
Tips for Southern Growers: People in the South have special challenges. See our Southern Garlic Grower’s Guide for a guide on growing garlic in the South. Â Â.
Garlic has a lot of different colors. One bulb is light-colored German Red, and on either side are two very purple Chesnok Red bulbs.
Advice for Growers in the North: Hardneck garlic does best in the north, but it needs to be kept safe from cold and hot weather. Make sure to plant in a hole that is 5 to 6 inches deep and cover the soil well with compost, wood chips, or fluffy straw. Make sure the straw doesn’t form thick mats on the ground that can stop garlic from growing. Plant several weeks after the first killing frost (we plant near the end of October). You can grow all the hardneck varieties if they are protected during the winter. Thermadrone and other softnecks are the most ‘iffy’ in really cold climates. These varieties may have some cloves that dont survive the winter. We are noticing that Lorz Italian is a much more cold hardy softneck.