If you keep plants in a hard–sided container for too long, their roots will circle around and cause damage. This guide will help you take care of your container trees so that this doesn’t happen. In Part 1, you’ll learn how to find the root flare prior to planting the tree. In Part 2, you’ll determine the depth and width of the planting hole, then address any circling roots.
Also, don’t forget to call 811 a few business days before you start digging to get an idea of where buried utilities are so you don’t accidentally dig into one.
For descriptions of trees suitable to plant throughout Colorado, please visit the Colorado Tree Coalition’s website. For Front Range Tree Recommendations, explore this CSU extension guide.
Planting trees in pots in the ground can be a great way to add beautiful foliage and shade to your yard or garden. With the right techniques, you can have lovely potted trees thriving in your landscape. In this complete guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about planting trees in pots in the ground.
Why Plant Trees in Pots?
There are a few key reasons you may want to plant trees in pots rather than directly in the ground
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Mobility: Potted trees are much easier to move around your yard if you want to reposition them or take them with you when you move.
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Drainage: Potted trees won’t become waterlogged like trees planted directly in soil that doesn’t drain well. The pot elevates them and allows excess water to drain away.
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Containment: For trees that spread aggressively through their roots like willows, pots can help contain them and prevent root invasion of your garden beds or lawn.
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Small Spaces Container trees work well for small yards where you don’t have a large planting area You can tuck potted trees into tight spots
Choose the Right Tree for Container Growing
While many tree varieties do well in pots, some are better suited than others. Look for compact varieties that grow no more than 8-15 feet tall at maturity. Some great options include:
- Japanese maple
- Crape myrtle
- Paperbark maple
- Flowering cherry, plum or pear trees
- Magnolia
- Redbud
- Serviceberry
Avoid fast-growing evergreen trees like pines and spruces Their extensive root systems require frequent repotting and pruning to keep them small Deciduous trees tend to adapt better to container life,
Use the Proper Pot or Planter
Pick a container that’s about 2-3 times wider than the current root ball of your tree. This will leave ample room for root growth for at least a year before repotting. Porous terracotta, wood, plastic and resin planters all work well. Make sure the container has drainage holes.
For very large trees, you can plant them in half wine barrels, galvanized metal tubs, and stock tanks sunk into the ground. Just be sure the rim sits a few inches above ground level.
Prepare the Planting Site
Choose a spot with full sun to part shade exposure. Dig a hole 2-3 times wider than the pot you’ll be using. The depth should allow the top rim of the pot to sit just slightly above ground level. This prevents water from pooling.
Amend the soil by mixing in compost or rotted manure to improve drainage and nutrients. You want nutrient-rich but fast-draining soil.
Plant Following Proper Techniques
Carefully remove the tree from its nursery pot, handling it by the root ball rather than the trunk. Gently loosen any circling roots on the edges. Place into the new container so the first flare of larger roots sits just above soil level.
Fill the pot with your amended soil mix. Pack it down firmly to prevent air pockets but don’t over-compact it. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom.
Place the pot into the prepared hole. Backfill around it with soil, tamping gently. Do not cover the top rim of the pot with soil.
Provide Ongoing Care
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Water potted trees whenever the soil dries out an inch below the surface. Trees in pots need more frequent watering than in-ground ones.
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Fertilize in spring and mid-summer with a balanced organic fertilizer.
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Prune to keep growth compact and remove dead wood.
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Repot every 2-3 years in early spring. Move up just one pot size each time.
With the right selection, materials, and care, planting trees in pots in the ground is an excellent way to inject beauty and shade into patios, yards, and gardens of any size! Follow these tips and enjoy your thriving container trees.
Part 1: Find the Root Flare
Find the tree’s root flare before digging the hole and planting the tree.
Step 1: Find the Grafting Point
- A lot of the time, trees in pots have too much soil on top of their roots. Because nurseries “pot up” seedlings as they get bigger and put them in bigger pots, this takes place.
- The tree in picture 1 is planted too deeply in its pot right now. It is where the trunk bulges at the soil line that you will graft. This is where the root stock was joined to the tree species when the plant was still very young. The root flare is not visible.
Step 2: Manage Adventitious Buds
- You may find roots growing from the tree’s trunk that aren’t part of its root flare when you dig up the ground.
- In 2, the roots that grow from the trunk come from adventitious buds, which are active roots that grow from stems or other parts of the tree. These roots are growing because there is soil and water on the trunk.
- You can leave them out in the open and let them dry out and die, or you can use a sharp pruning tool to get rid of them.
- Keep digging to find the true root flare.
Step 3: Remove any Roots that Cross or Circle the Trunk
- The root can start to grow into the tree trunk as the trunk and root get bigger. The tree’s vascular system moves water and food up and down the tree. This could hurt the system.
- These roots are called girdling roots. They can wrap around or squeeze the trunk, which can lead to crown die-back or tree death.
- In 3, you can see a root growing next to the trunk. If this root is left alone, it will grow into the trunk and hurt the tissue in the trunk. Cut the root off at its source on the trunk with a sharp pruning tool.
- There may be very few roots in this part of the root ball, but all the roots that are growing around or across the trunk need to be cut off to avoid problems in the future.
Step 4: Finding the Root Flare
- 4 shows the root flare from the tree trunk. This is not an extra root; it is part of the tree’s original root system.
- Imagine a child’s drawing of a tree. The tree doesn’t grow straight into the ground like a telephone pole; it spreads out at ground level. This flare needs to be found before a hole is dug and a tree is planted. The flare is planted at or slightly above ground level.
- Tree roots need oxygen to grow. When you plant the tree, you give it the best chance to grow and do well by placing the root flare at or just above ground level.
Step 5: Remove Soil Around the Root Flare
- The root flare of the tree can be many inches deep in the root ball.
- The root ball can be made smaller by taking away the soil above the root flare. It’s usually more important to find the root flare than to worry about how big the root ball is. If the root ball gets too small, you might want to take the tree back to where you bought it and buy a new one.
- In 5, the root flare was found about 3 inches below the soil level. Many extra roots and girdling roots that were growing above this point were cut out.
- We can now find the depth of the planting hole once we know where the root flare is. You should measure this from the root flare to the bottom of the root ball. The root flare should be just above the soil level. This keeps the flare from dropping below the level of the soil as it settles after planting.
- Part 2 tells you what to do next when you plant a tree.
How To Plant A Tree From A Container
FAQ
Can I plant a potted tree in the ground?
Do trees grow better in pots or ground?
Can you put a potted plant in the ground?