Pruning apple trees is an essential yearly task for optimal growth and maximum fruit production. But for those new to pruning, the idea of cutting away limbs and branches can seem daunting. Will the tree survive? Will it look disfigured? Fear not! Proper pruning techniques lead to some dramatic before and after differences that allow the apple tree to thrive.
Why Prune Apple Trees?
Pruning serves multiple beneficial purposes
- Removes diseased, dead, and crossing branches
- Opens up the canopy to light and air circulation
- Maintains a manageable height for easy picking
- Encourages new productive fruit wood
- Manages vigor and stimulates flower buds
- Produces larger, higher quality apples
In addition pruning controls the shape and structure. Apple trees left unpruned become overgrown masses of tangled branches with poor quality fruit hidden in the dense foliage.
When to Prune
The majority of pruning takes place in late winter or very early spring before growth starts, This is the best time to assess the overall structure while the tree is dormant
Some additional corrective pruning can be done in early summer to remove watersprouts and allow better light exposure. Take care not to remove too much new growth at this time.
Dramatic Before and After Results
Now let’s look at some before and after examples of pruned apple trees to see the dramatic improvements:
Overgrown and Unmanaged
This old apple tree has grown completely out of control after years without pruning. Branches are long and leggy, packed together in a dense tangle blocking light penetration. There are dead and rubbing limbs, with most fruit production high out of reach.
After rejuvenation pruning, the tree is left with a nicely balanced open shape. The canopy has been thinned to allow sunlight throughout. Fruiting wood has been lowered and renewed. Light levels and air circulation have improved significantly.
Young Tree Establishing Structure
This 2-year old dwarf apple tree grown from a nursery whip needs structural pruning to shape strong scaffold branches. Unpruned, it would assume a bushy ball shape lacking definition.
Selective heading cuts on the leaders refine the form into a modified central leader style. Lower branches provide a fruiting framework. Pruning while young makes managing mature size and structure much easier.
Damaged and Congested Canopy
Years of neglect left this tree with overgrown crossing branches, water sprouts, and stubs from improper pruning. The congested canopy lacked light and air penetration, with minimal fruiting wood.
Thinning cuts remove tangled growth and allow light throughout. Water sprouts are removed to direct energy into productive branches. Damaged wood is pruned back to healthy tissue. The renewed structure ensures good fruit production.
Espalier Transformation
Espalier apple trees are trained to grow flat along a trellis or wires. This creates fruit within easy reach and adds ornamental value. An unkempt espalier quickly becomes a tangled mess of shoots.
After precise structural pruning, the espalier regains its orderly shape and regimented form. Side shoots are shortened, keeping growth contained. Light levels are improved on developing fruits. The orderly pattern makes an attractive living fence or divider.
As you can see, knowledgeable pruning really does make a dramatic difference in the health, vigor and fruiting capabilities of apple trees. Don’t be afraid to get out those loppers and saws and get to work!. In just a few seasons, you’ll have the shapely, productive specimen apple tree you’ve always dreamed of.
Pruning Tools
Having the right pruning tools for the job makes the work much easier. Here are the basics:
- Bypass hand pruners – For small branches up to 1/2 inch diameter
- Loppers – Long handled pruners for thick branches up to 1 1/2 inch diameter
- Folding saw – For large branches, gets into tight spaces
- Pole saw or pruner – For high branches out of reach
- Pole saw with chainsaw – For really thick high branches
Keep tools clean and sharp for clean cuts that heal quickly. Disinfect regularly with isopropyl alcohol to prevent spreading disease.
Pruning Cuts
It’s important to understand the types of pruning cuts:
Thinning Cuts – Removes an entire shoot or branch back to a sideshoot or the origin. Opens up interior canopy space.
Heading Cuts – Removes just the end portion of a shoot, stimulating lower buds. Controls height and directs growth.
Bench Cuts – Removes portion of a side branch back to main lateral branch or scaffold. Discourages vigor.
Pruning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar, angled away from any remaining buds. Avoid leaving stubs and tearing bark.
What to Prune
When tackling an overgrown apple tree, here’s what to focus on removing:
- Dead, diseased, broken, and rubbing branches
- Watersprouts and suckers – vigorous vertical shoots
- Crossed/entangled growth and narrow crotch angles
- Limbs shading interior of canopy or low growth
- Branches pointing inward or growing toward center
- Old non-productive limbs (after 3-5 years fruiting)
- Root suckers from graft rootstock
Crowded center growth can be thinned out to open shape. Lingering old fruit spurs can be rejuvenated by cutting younger 1-2 year old wood back to 2-3 buds.
Pruning Young Trees
Proper pruning and training early on sets up the tree structure for ease of future pruning and maximum fruit production.
For a modified central leader:
- Select 3-5 primary scaffold branches, spaced evenly up the central trunk
- Prune competing leader stems, leaving the strongest central leader
- Shorten vigorous upright shoots, prune lower branches lightly
- Remove cross branches, watersprouts, root suckers
For open center trees:
- Select 3-4 primary scaffold branches 24-30 inches above ground
- Prune central leader just above top scaffold branches
- Train branches outwards with spreading angles
- Remove vigorous upright growth shading the center
Organic Options
For those who prefer organic options, try these for disinfecting tools between trees:
- Isopropyl or Rubbing alcohol – 70% or higher concentration
- Full strength white vinegar – Has acetic acid that kills pathogens
- Hydrogen peroxide – 10% concentration works well
- Household bleach – Use 1 part bleach to 9 parts water
- Milk – The enzymes have anti-microbial effects
And for wound dressing, turn to nature:
- Propolis – Collected by bees, has antimicrobial properties
- Aloe vera gel – Soothes and aids healing
- Honey or sugar paste – Seals wounds against pathogens
- Shellac – Secreted by the lac beetle, natural wound sealer
Aftercare
Once pruning is complete, your work isn’t quite done. Proper aftercare ensures your efforts don’t go to waste:
- Disinfect tools after each use with alcohol/bleach solution
- Shred or chip removed branches to use as garden mulch
- Allow wounds over 1 inch to callous before wet weather arrives
- Monitor for disease, insects, and sunscald on newly exposed areas
- Water deeply after pruning to encourage wound closure
- Avoid excessive pruning that could push new growth too late into fall
With the right pruning techniques, even the most unruly apple tree can be transformed into a productive specimen! Regular pruning and care will keep your trees healthy, vigorous and bountiful for many seasons to come.
How to Prune Apple Trees
FAQ
How should an apple tree look after pruning?
What happens if you over prune an apple tree?
How far back can you trim an apple tree without killing it?
When should you prune an apple tree?
On a mature fruit producing apple tree, pruning should remove the older, less fruit productive branches after their peak three to five year period. Summer is the best time to remove these older limbs when it is most obvious which ones those are. It is also a good time to prune diseased or damaged areas of the apple tree as they become visible.
How often should you prune a dwarf apple tree?
By nature, apple trees are inclined to produce copious amounts of leafy growth and few fruits. Yearly pruning to thin out the canopy and make way for more fruit will flip the script and yield a generous harvest. Just 30 minutes of pruning directs the growth of a dwarf apple tree for another year of good fruit production.
Is it safe to prune an apple tree?
One thing they can be finicky about is pruning. Proper pruning reduces the chances of the tree developing broken and diseased branches, but over-pruning can be detrimental to its overall health. To find out the best and safest way to prune apple trees, we chatted with an expert arborist and the owner of an orchard.
Why do apple trees need to be pruned?
Pruning works to create a healthier tree, stimulate growth, and produce larger quantities and higher quality fruit over time. We’ll prime you on the proper timing and the tools you need, then show you how to prune both young and mature apple trees to get the most out of your harvest.
How do you prune an apple tree?
Typically, a well-pruned apple tree has 4-6 scaffold branches, which grow in 2-3 tiers. Select 3-4 well-spaced (about 10 in (25 cm) apart), strong scaffold branches in your young tree, and cut the rest off at the base. Opt for scaffold branches growing at 45- to 60-degree angles from the trunk to encourage outward growth.
When should you prune a tree?
Pruning in late winter is also a good choice. Avoid pruning in summer or fall. Although late winter is also a good time to prune, if buds haven’t formed yet it can be difficult to tell dead branches from live ones.