When to Harvest Onions in Texas

Onions are a delicious and versatile vegetable that can be grown successfully in gardens across Texas Knowing the optimal time to harvest onions is key to getting the largest, healthiest bulbs from your crop In this article, we’ll cover everything you need to know about identifying when your onions are ready to pick and how to harvest them properly.

Onion Growth Stages

Onions go through distinct growth phases during their development from seed to harvest Understanding these stages will help you identify when your onions are getting close to prime harvesting time

  • Seedling stage – Onions start as tiny seedlings after germination. Seedlings will have thin, grass-like leaves.

  • Vegetative growth – The onion plant focuses on leaf growth and root establishment. You’ll see the leaves getting taller and wider.

  • Bulbing – When the day length triggers bulbing, the onion plant will shift energy into developing the underground bulb. Leaves will fall over as the bulb swells.

  • Maturity – The onion bulb reaches maximum size and the leaves turn yellow and dry out. This signals that the onion is mature and ready for harvesting.

When to Harvest Based on Texas Growing Zones

Texas has a wide range of climates and the ideal harvest timing can vary across the state. Here are some general guidelines for when to harvest onions based on Texas growing zones:

  • North Texas (zones 7b-8a) – Harvestshort-day and intermediate-day onions from late May through mid-June when about 1/3 of the tops have fallen over.

  • Central Texas (zones 8b) – Harvest short-day varieties from late April through May when the tops start falling over. Intermediate-day types can be harvested starting in early May.

  • South Texas (zones 9a-9b) – Short-day onions can be harvested from mid-March through April. Intermediate-day varieties are ready starting in late April.

  • Far West Texas (zones 7a-8a) – Harvest short-day and intermediate-day onions from early May through mid-June.

Identifying Mature Onions

Keep an eye on your onion crop as it progresses through the growth stages. Here are the signs that your onions are mature and ready for harvesting:

  • Falling foliage – The green tops will become soft and start to fall over, with the neck of the plant becoming weak. About 1/3 or more of the tops will have fallen over when onions are ready.

  • Thinning foliage – As the bulb matures, the above-ground foliage will turn yellowish and start to thin out.

  • Bulb size – Gently dig around the base of a plant and pull up an onion to check bulb size. The bulb should be fully formed and thick.

Harvesting Techniques

Use care when harvesting onions to avoid damaging the bulbs:

  • Ideal conditions – Pick in the early morning after the dew has dried but before the sun gets too hot. Avoid wet, rainy weather.

  • Pulling – Gently pull up mature plants by grasping the tops and loosely shaking off excess soil. Take care not to bruise the bulbs.

  • Curing – Allow onions to cure in the garden for 1-2 days before further processing. Lay pulled onions on their tops on soil. This protects the bulbs while the necks finish drying out.

  • Trimming – Use scissors or pruners to trim the roots and tops, leaving about 1″ of stem after curing.

Storing the Onion Harvest

After curing and trimming, move onion bulbs to proper storage conditions to enjoy your harvest for months:

  • Dry location – Choose a spot that is sheltered from rain and moisture, like a shed, garage, or basement. Avoid humidity.

  • Good air circulation – Place onions in mesh bags or bushel baskets with plenty of airflow around the bulbs.

  • Low light – Keep onions in the dark as light can cause sprouting. Cover with towels if needed.

  • Cool temperatures – Ideal storage temperature is 32°F to 40°F. The refrigerator works well for short-term storage.

Common Onion Problems

Watch for these potential issues while your onions are growing and maturing:

  • Flowering – Some onions will send up a tall flower stalk (bolting). Pinch off any flower stalks to encourage bulb growth.

  • Thin necks – Weak, thin necks can lead to tops falling over too early before the bulb is mature. Ensure consistent watering.

  • Splitting – Excessive watering or rains later in growth may cause onions to crack open or split. Avoid over-watering near harvest.

  • Sunscald – Intense sun can burn and dry out exposed bulbs during curing. Lightly cover with foliage for protection.

With the right care and harvesting at optimal maturity, you can enjoy a plentiful onion harvest from your Texas garden. Pay close attention to foliage changes, bulb size, and other signs that your onions are ready. Use gentle harvesting and curing methods and store properly once picked. Follow these guidelines for your tastiest onions yet!

Preparing the Garden Site

Onions grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. To prepare your garden for the onions, work the soil loose, about 8-10 inches deep. Add three inches of compost on top of the soil, and then work the compost into the soil so that it is spread out evenly. Make a hill 2-3 inches high, then rake the top of the hill flat. Break up large clods of dirt so the soil is fine across the hill.

Planting the sets is not difficult. Make a furrow that is ¾ inches deep in the hill you have prepared. Take each set and put it in the furrow. Space the plants three inches apart so they have room to grow. Gently fill in enough soil to keep the onion plant vertical.

You can grow onions from seed as well as sets. Onion seeds are best planted ¼ inch deep in October. Place the seeds one inch apart. When the onion plants are about six inches high, thin to 2-3 inches between the onion plants. Don’t crowd the plants or they will not grow as big. You can eat the thinned onions as green onions. The onions you plant in January won’t grow as big as onions you plant in the fall before they flower (bolt). The onions are not good to eat after they bolt.

If you do not want to plant seeds or sets, it is possible to get transplants. These are larger than sets so take less time to mature. Transplants may be hard to find. They should be planted as early in the spring as possible. Space them 4-6 inches apart so that they have room to grow. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1/2″][vc_single_ =”4561″ img_size=”full” css=”. vc_custom_1642444930648{padding-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column_text]Onion sets ready to plant. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″][vc_single_ =”4562″ img_size=”full” css=”. vc_custom_1642444966289{padding-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column_text]Ready to harvest onion plant growing in a garden in the village of Trimingham Norfolk, England. Taken by Kolforn under CC license. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=”. vc_custom_1642442066947{padding-top: 20px !important;}”].

Onion sets, transplants, and seeds need fertilizer to grow well. Cover 100 feet with two to three pounds of a fertilizer like 10-10-10. Then, mix the fertilizer into the top two to three inches of soil. Water the onions after you have planted them and spread the fertilizer. When the onion plants have 5-6 leaves, spread ½ cup of fertilizer for each 10 feet of row. Water the fertilizer in.

When it’s cool, onions need an inch of water a week. If it’s dry, hot, and windy, they may need more. It is best to water slowly and deeply to encourage deep roots that are sturdy and plump.

Onions need to be kept weeded. The weeds compete with the onions for nutrients and water. Pulling weeds by hand is the best way to get rid of them. Do not hoe the onion roots when weeding. You should weed before the weed plants are 3-4 inches tall for easiest removal. Weeds can outcompete your onions so make sure you keep the weeds under control.

Few pests bother onions. The major one you will find will be onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). These tiny insects are usually found between the center leaves. They leave behind slivery patches that may look like trails through the leaves. A severe infestation of onion thrips may cause leaves to become dry and yellow or die. Thrips carry several types of viruses that are incurable and will kill your onions.

Onions can become spotted or have brown tips from fungal diseases. Your onions can get a number of different fungal diseases. To get a diagnosis, send a picture of the sick onion plant to our help desk at [email protected]. tame. edu).

Sulphur will kill both the thrips and most fungal diseases. Make sure that anything you put on your onions says it can go on onions, and use it the way the label says to. Some things will not only get rid of the pests and diseases, but will make you sick, too.

Harvest green onions any time after the plant is at least as big as a pencil in diameter. When the stalks get weak and start to fall over, you know it’s time to pick the onions. This should happen in late May to early June. For one or two days, let the onions dry in the garden after you take them out and brush off the dirt. Get rid of the stalks and roots, and let the onions dry in a place with good air flow. A wire basket in a cool, dry, dark place is a good place to store the onions. They can also be stored in the crisper of your refrigerator but will not last as long. Do not store them in a hot garage or they will spoil rapidly.

Harvesting Onions in North Texas

FAQ

Can you wait too long to harvest onions?

So first of all, it’s really important to know that really there is no right or wrong. You can harvest onions whenever you want to. So you can harvest them when they are small little bulbs, you can wait until they get huge. You can do whatever it is you want.

What month do you plant onions in Texas?

The best way to insure success is to either plant the onion seed from October 1 until November 15 or plant transplants from January through February in Texas Zones III – V (USDA Zones 8 and 9).

When to harvest onions in Texas?

Harvest your onions when the skins are dry and the necks are starting to turn yellow. With a little care and attention, you can easily grow delicious onions in Texas. So what are you waiting for?

Can you plant onions now in Texas?

Yes, you can plant onions now in Texas. The best time to plant onions is in the fall, but you can also plant them in the spring. Onion plants need full sun and well-drained soil to grow well. Add some compost or manure to your soil before planting to help improve drainage and add nutrients.

Can you grow a long day onion in North Texas?

Here in North Texas we can only grow short-day and intermediate-day onions. Day-length in the North Texas summer never reaches the required number of hours for a long-day onion to bulb. If you plant a long day onion here it will just keep growing leaves and never produce a bulb.

When is the best time to plant onions in Houston?

In Houston, the best time to plant onions is in late fall or early winter. This gives the plants a chance to establish themselves before the hot summer weather arrives. When choosing onion varieties for your garden, keep in mind that there are two types: short-day and long-day onions.

When are onions ready to harvest?

Onion bulbs are ready to harvest when their necks soften, their leaves yellow, and the tops start to fall over. In our region, begin harvesting when one-quarter to one-third of the tops have fallen over. Short-day onions will begin bulbing here in late April. Intermediate-day onions start to bulb in May.

Can you grow onions in winter in Texas?

It is possible to grow onions in winter in Texas. The climate is not too cold and the soil does not freeze, so you can still get a good crop. However, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, you will need to start your onions early.

Leave a Comment