Grapes are one of the most popular and beloved fruits used for wine jams, juices, and eating fresh off the vine. But where do grapes actually grow – on vines, or trees? The answer is vines! Here’s an overview of the unique growth habits of grapevines.
Grapevines Are Climbing Vines
Grapes grow on flexible, woody vines that spread out horizontally across the ground or climb up supports. Grapevines have a growth habit called lianas, which refers to climbing woody vines. They originate from a trunk close to the ground and send out long stems with leaves and fruit.
Unlike trees which have a strong central trunk and grow vertically, grapevines have flexible stems and grow laterally. They use tendrils to cling and climb up supports. Grapevines are not free-standing plants – they require an external structure for support.
So while grapevines have woody stems like trees, their overall growth form categorizes them as vines rather than trees.
Why Grapevines Don’t Grow as Trees
There are a few reasons why grapes don’t grow as standalone trees
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Weight – Grape clusters are heavy, so vines need support to keep fruit off the ground. A freestanding grape trunk would break under the weight.
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Sun exposure – Grapes need maximum sun exposure for fruit production. Vining allows them to spread out leaves horizontally and climb upwards towards sunlight.
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Sap flow – Grapevines bleed sap very easily when pruned or damaged. The high sap pressure in vines makes them unsuitable for tree-form growth.
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No central trunk – Grapevines lack a strong central trunk and naturally grow as dispersed stems. Training them into a tree shape goes against their natural form.
Using Trees as Grapevine Supports
While grapevines don’t grow as trees, they can be trained onto existing trees for support in a method called married vines. This traditional practice involves selecting a sturdy tree and training grape vine stems up the trunk and laterally through the branches.
Some key tips for successful married vines:
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Choose a robust, mature tree as the structural support. Fruit trees like figs work well.
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Select grape varieties suited for your climate. Early budding types are best for warmer areas.
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Train vines gradually up the tree without strangling the trunk. Leave space between vines.
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Prune grapevines diligently each year to control vigor and promote fruiting.
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Fertilize and water both the tree and grapevines to promote health.
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Avoid tying or attaching vines tightly to the tree. Allow flexibility.
Constructing Sturdy Grapevine Supports
In modern viticulture, grapevines are rarely grown on trees. More common supports include:
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Trellises – Strong trellis systems with wire training allow grapevines to grow upright in orderly rows. This is the most common method used in vineyards today.
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Arbors – Ornamental garden structures made of wood or metal that allow grapevines to create shaded, leafy tunnels.
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Fences – Backyard grapevines can be trained up fence lines and rows. Chain link, picket, and cage wire fences work well.
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Poles – Individual poles set in the ground every 6-10 feet provide support for horizontal vine growth across.
When growing grapes, be sure to construct robust supports that can handle the vines’ vigorous growth and substantial weight. Proper trellising and pruning keeps vines productive.
Grapevine Growth Habits
Understanding that grapes grow on vining plants rather than tree-like structures allows you to provide the right supports to accommodate their growth. Take advantage of the flexible, spreading nature of grapevines by training them up, out, and over sturdy structures in the garden for bountiful fruit production.
Follow this simple calendar to keep grapevines healthy and productive
| Tasks | When to do them |
|---|---|
| For existing vines, prune before growth starts | March |
| Plant bare root grapevines as soon as soil can be worked | April, May |
| Rub off any shoots that start growing lower down on the trunk | April through June |
| Tie new growth to trellis as needed | April through August |
| Inspect vines throughout the season to catch disease and insect problems | April through October |
| Plant potted grapevines after threat of frost has passed | May, June |
| As fruit ripens, watch for bird damage; cover with netting if needed | September, October |
| Harvest fruit based on color and flavor | September, October |
| Clean up all fallen leaves, fruit and debris | October, November |
The following types can be used to make juice, jelly, and some can even be used to make wine. Of course any can be eaten fresh, and you might be surprised at the wide range of flavors!.
There are other types that are sold at garden centers and online nurseries that say they can grow in USDA zone 4, but these have been carefully tested by the University of Minnesota and have been shown to do well in our climate.
If youre interested in more extensive information about all of these varieties, you can find a current list of nurseries at the Minnesota Grape Growers website. The University of California at Davis also maintains a national grape registry nursery list that includes northern suppliers. Please note that some nurseries only sell wholesale.
Varieties in bold were cultivated by the University of Minnesota and include the year they were introduced.
| Variety | Best use | Avg. harvest time | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bluebell (1944) | Juice, jelly | Mid Sept. | Blue berries that look and taste like Concord. Excellent hardiness in zone 4; does very well in zone 3. |
| Edelweiss (1977) (joint release with Elmer Swenson) | Fresh eating | Late Aug. to early Sept. | Very juicy yellow-green berries with floral aroma. Can also be used to make sweet wine. Does well in zone 4; okay in zone 3. |
| Frontenac (1996) | Wine | Late Sept. to early Oct. | Small blue berries that ripen late. Can be used to make rose, red and port wines. Grows very well in zone 4; does well in zone 3. |
| Frontenac Blanc (2012) | Wine | Late Sept. to early Oct. | Truly white version of Frontenac. Makes very light white wine. Grows very well in zone 4; does well in zone 3. |
| Frontenac Gris (2003) | Wine | Late Sept. to early Oct. | Small pink berries with a fruity aroma. Makes sweet white wine. Grows very well in zone 4; does well in zone 3. |
| LaCrescent (2002) | Wine | Late Sept. to early Oct. | Yellow-pink berries with apricot and honey aromas. Grows very well in zone 4; does well in zone 3. |
| Marquette (2006) | Wine | Mid to late Sept. | One of the best for making red wine. Grows very well in zone 4; does well in zone 3. |
| Swenson Red (1977) (joint release with Elmer Swenson) | Fresh eating | Red berries are large, crisp, fruity, with hints of strawberry. Grows well in zone 4. | |
| Swenson White | Wine, fresh eating | Yellow-green, juicy berries with a floral aroma. Grows well in zone 4. | |
| St. Croix | Wine | Late Aug. to early Sept. | Generally known as a wine grape, but good for fresh eating. Grows very well in zone 4; okay in zone 3. |
Seedless grapes generally dont do well in northern climates. Three varieties that are best for fresh eating and have been tested to grow reliably in zone 4:
- Mars— Sweet, juicy, blue berries with flavor similar to Concord.
- Petite Jewel—red berries that taste great with both fruit and spice (may be hard to grow).
- Somerset Seedless— Pink-red berries that are juicy and delicious. Hardiest of the seedless varieties.
Growing grapes for many uses
If your main goal is to cover an arbor with grapes, you can pick any hardy and healthy variety.
Do you hope to make grape juice and jelly? Several dependable easy-care varieties will fit this purpose. Juice and jelly grapes are traditionally some of the most winter-hardy varieties. Being familiar with the various parts of a grapevine will help when it comes to growing and pruning.
If you want fresh grapes without seeds, you can grow some of them in Minnesota right now. However, all of them will need some winter protection except for the ones in the farthest southern Minnesota. Seeded table grapes are generally more cold-hardy and vigorous than newer seedless varieties.
There are now many excellent cold-hardy wine grape varieties available for commercial and hobby winemakers in northern climates. Several of these have been developed by the University of Minnesota specifically for our harsh climate.
When making wine, you’ll need to be more selective about the variety you pick. Think about what kinds of plants will make the wine you want and how they should be trained and pruned. You can eat these grapes right off the vine, but they usually have more seeds, more acid, and more sugar than table and juice grapes.
DO THIS To Your Grape Vines NOW If You Want To Grow The LARGEST Bunches Of Grapes!!
FAQ
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