Identifying and Managing Red Insect Pests on Tomato Plants

As a tomato grower, you put in long hours nursing your plants along, only to walk outside and find swarms of small red insects crawling over your prized tomatoes While these intruders can certainly be alarming, try not to panic Learning to properly identify and control common red tomato pests is the key to protecting your crop.

Common Red Insect Threats to Tomatoes

Here are some of the likely suspects that could be infesting your tomato plants

Tomato Fruitworms

These plump, green caterpillars have faint white stripes and can reach 2 inches long when mature. They burrow into ripe tomatoes, leaving large holes and fecal droppings behind. Adult moths lay eggs on leaves and larvae feed on buds and fruit. Handpick caterpillars and use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) sprays.

Tomato Hornworms

These large green caterpillars with white v-shaped markings blend in well on tomato foliage. They quickly defoliate plants and damage fruit. Hornworms and fruitworms are closely related. Control them the same way.

Pepper Maggots

Small white larvae bore into and feed within ripe tomatoes. Maggots emerge from tomatoes as adult flies which can lay more eggs to continue the cycle. Remove infested tomatoes immediately and use floating row covers at fruiting time.

Pepper Weevils

These 1⁄4 inch long beetles are reddish-brown with long snouts. They feed on leaves and lay eggs inside of flower buds and fruit. Damaged green fruit becomes misshapen. Knock weevils into soapy water. Destroy fallen fruit which may harbor larvae.

Lace Bugs

Lace bugs are true bugs with lacy, transparent wings and spiny nymphs. They use needle-like mouthparts to suck juices from leaves, causing yellow stippling damage. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil sprays. Reduce moisture stress.

Spider Mites

These tiny pests are red early in life, turning darker later. They form colonies on the undersides of leaves, causing yellow stippling or bronze discoloration when populations swell. Knock them off with a strong stream of water. Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oils.

How to Control Red Tomato Pests

Once you’ve identified the type of red bugs or insects impacting your tomato plants, implement targeted organic and least toxic solutions:

• Handpick larger pests like hornworms and fruitworms and drop them into soapy water.

• Use pheromone traps to capture and monitor adult moths.

• Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) sprays to treat caterpillars. Be sure to fully coat leaves.

• Remove damaged fruit immediately and dispose of in sealed bags.

• Use row covers or garden fabric at fruiting time to exclude pests.

• Apply neem oil or insecticidal soaps to suffocate small soft-bodied insects.

• Use sticky traps or reflective mulches to reduce flying insect pests.

• Attract beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings and parasitic wasps which prey on tomato pests.

• Rotate between pesticide classes to reduce resistance in pest populations.

• Maintain proper sanitation by removing crop debris after harvest.

Be vigilant about monitoring for any population resurgences and respond promptly. Combining multiple organic strategies offers the best control and avoids over-reliance on any single pesticide. With persistence, you can manage the swarms and enjoy bountiful tomato harvests.

Frequently Asked Questions About Red Tomato Insects

Here are answers to some common questions about controlling red pests on tomato plants:

What are the small red spiders on my tomato plants?

These are likely two-spotted spider mites, especially if you notice stippling damage or bronzing on the leaves. Check the undersides of leaves for tiny red dots that move when disturbed.

Why do I see little red ants crawling on my tomato plants?

The ants are feeding on the sugary honeydew secreted by other insects like aphids, whiteflies, or soft scales. Control these sap-feeding pests and the ants should subside as well.

What causes the red splotches and holes in my tomatoes?

Fruitworms and hornworms chew into ripening tomatoes, leaving frass and reddish-brown scars or trails. Handpick caterpillars and use Bt spray. Remove damaged fruit promptly.

How do I get rid of the tiny red bugs eating holes in my leaves?

Red adult lace bugs and their spiky nymphs damage leaves. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Reduce moisture stress and increase sunlight.

What is eating my tomato buds and leaves?

Pepper weevils cause distorted buds and chewed leaves. These small red beetles overwinter in plant debris. Knock them into soapy water to control.

By responding quickly at the first signs of red bugs or larvae, you can protect your tomato crop. Combine organic strategies like row covers, beneficial insects, and targeted sprays for effective and eco-friendly pest control in your garden.

A Closer Look at Common Red Tomato Pests

Let’s take a more in-depth look at some of the most likely red insect culprits that may be attacking your tomato plants:

Tomato Hornworms

One of the most damaging tomato pests is the huge, green tomato hornworm caterpillar. It can reach 3-4 inches long when fully grown! The caterpillar has eight white v-shaped markings along its sides and a horn-like spike on its rear end. It blends in very well with tomato foliage, so you have to search carefully to spot them.

Tomato hornworms voraciously chew leaves and damage ripening fruit. You may spot large holes bored into tomatoes or find brown frass pellets on leaves before ever seeing the hornworms. Their green coloring camouflages them well.

If populations explode, hornworms can quickly defoliate and heavily damage tomato plants. Their feeding reduces photosynthesis which stunts plants. The caterpillars also spread tobacco mosaic virus and tomato yellow leaf curl virus as they feed.

The adult form of the hornworm is the beautiful hawk or sphinx moth which flits between plants at dusk. The moths lay eggs on the undersides of leaves which hatch into destructive larvae in about a week. There are typically 2-3 generations per year.

Manually pluck any hornworms you spot from plants and drop them into soapy water. Be sure to check the undersides of leaves and the main stems which they love to hide inside. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) sprays thoroughly on foliage to kill young larvae. Keep plants healthy to withstand damage.

Tomato Fruitworms

Closely related to hornworms are tomato fruitworms, also called corn earworms or cotton bollworms. The plump caterpillars grow over 1.5 inches long and are green with faint white stripes along their sides. The adults are buff-colored moths.

As the name implies, fruitworms burrow into ripe tomatoes, leaving large, deep holes and red-brown frass pellets behind. They don’t limit themselves to just tomatoes though – fruitworms can also damage squash, beans, corn, and other vegetables.

Like hornworms, fruitworms are most destructive in their larval caterpillar stage. Their entry holes allow decay organisms to take hold, quickly ruining tomatoes. Cool, wet weather promotes higher populations. The moths may overwinter in greenhouses or other protected sites.

Carefully monitor ripening fruit clusters for signs of damage. Pick and destroy any infested tomatoes. Target the caterpillars with Bt or by handpicking. Reduce weeds around gardens that serve as alternate hosts. Time plantings to avoid periods of peak fruitworm activity.

Pheromone traps can help indicate adult moth flight peaks so you know when to be on high alert. Row covers and gardening fabric can physically exclude the moths during crucial fruiting periods. Be aggressively protective to save your tomatoes!

Pepper Weevils

Pepper weevils are a type of beetle in the Curculionidae family of “snout beetles”. Adults reach just 1/4 inch long and are reddish-brown with long proboscis “snouts”. They overwinter as adults in protected sites like leaf litter or under boards.

In spring, overwintered pepper weevils become active and feed on emerging tomato leaves and petioles. This chewing damage causes wilting or death of seedlings. The beetles also lay eggs inside developing flower buds, which causes them to abnormally swell or drop off.

Larvae continue feeding within the flowers and developing fruit. Infested green tomatoes become misshapen with internal burrows and reddish spots. Weevils introdude disease organisms through their damage. Heavy feeding ruins tomato crops.

These beetles are most active at night. During the day, they drop to the soil to avoid heat and sunlight. Carefully monitor plants for wilted growth or abnormal flowers. Knock weevils from plants into containers of soapy water to control them. Keep the garden free of litter that serves as shelter.

Place drop cloths under plants and shake branches to dislodge weevils for collection. Destroy any damaged buds or fruit. Use fabric row covers at planting time to exclude the early season adults. Pep

Two-Spotted Spider Mites

Two-spotted spider mites are tiny pests that measure only 1/50 of an inch when full grown. They appear greenish-yellow early on, then turn red as they mature. The mites develop small black spots on either side of their bodies, hence the common name.

These tiny mites suck plant juices from the undersides of leaves. They form colonies with webbing, mostly on the undersides of leaves. Two-spotted spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions.

Spider mite feeding causes yellow stippling, bronzed discoloration, defoliation, and reduced plant vigor. Leaves may appear dusty. Tomato fruits may develop russeting damage. High populations can seriously impair tomato growth and productivity.

With a hand lens, check the undersides of leaves for small moving red dots. Jostle leaves over white paper to help dislodge spiders to make them more visible. Wash plants with water to disrupt colonies. Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil sprays to suffocate mites through coatings. Maintain vigorous plant growth through proper fertilization and irrigation. Predatory mites can help control infestations biologically.

Spider mites reproduce rapidly, so vigilance and prompt control is key. Don’t wait until extensive damage occurs to take action. Combine multiple tactics like washing, predatory mites, and insecticidal soap applications for most effective control in your tomato patch.

Red Spider Mites

Closely related to two-spotted spider mites are red spider mites in the Tetranychus genus. These include the Carmine spider mite and Strawberry spider mite which also attack tomatoes. Nymphs of these mites appear orange-red and turn darker red-brown when mature.

Like their two-spotted cousins, red spider mites colonize on the undersides of leaves and suck out plant fluids. Their feeding damages leaves, causing yellow stippling, browning, wilting, and leaf drop. Webbing may be visible on infested plants.

Red spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions with limited airflow. Monitor for bronzing damage and check the undersides of leaves. Treat with insecticidal soap, neem oil or horticultural oils. Wash plants to dislodge colonies. Maintain vigorous growth through proper irrigation and fertilization.

Natural predatory mites can be introduced to control infestations. Be sure to differentiate red spider mites from beneficial predatory mites which appear reddish-orange. Quick action is needed to prevent mite populations from exploding to damaging levels on your tomatoes.

Protecting Tomatoes from Destructive Red Pests

Don’t let red pests get the upper hand in your vegetable patch. Monitor plants closely for early signs of infestation. Accurately identifying the culprits allows you to take targeted, and ideally organic, control measures before populations multiply and cause significant defoliation or fruit damage.

Combining strategies like row covers, sanitation, beneficial insects, and least-toxic sprays can help tip the balance in favor of your tomatoes. The effort is well worth it to be rewarded with an abundant harvest of juicy red tomatoes at summer’s end. Just don’t let the red pests enjoy the fruits of your labor!