Preparing and digging a new garden bed can be fun and rewarding, but it takes a lot of work. It might be easier to use a tiller or hire someone to do the work, but there are some unique benefits to digging a bed by hand. By hand-digging, you can get to know your soil better, get rid of all the rocks and roots, and make your bed’s shape and contours exactly how you want them.
If you’re new to digging garden beds, have no fear! Follow this simple step-by-step guide and you’ll have rich, beautiful garden soil ready for planting in no time.
Choosing the Bed Site
When selecting where to locate your new bed keep these tips in mind
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Pick a spot that gets full sun—at least six hours of direct sunlight every day.
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Avoid low areas that collect water and remain wet
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Check for buried cables, pipes, or other obstacles. Call 811 for utility line marking if needed.
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Keep beds at least 2 feet from structures and fences for ease of access
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Consider how the shape will complement your landscape design.
Tools Needed
Having the right tools on hand will make digging your bed much easier:
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Garden spade or shovel – Choose a sturdy, short-handled one for leverage.
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Garden rake – For smoothing and leveling the soil.
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Tarp – To hold removed sod and keep soil contained.
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Wheelbarrow or buckets – For moving soil as you dig.
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Landscape fabric, cardboard – To line bottom of bed.
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Compost, manure, peat moss – To amend the soil.
How to Dig a New Garden Bed Step-by-Step
Follow these simple steps for digging the perfect garden bed from scratch:
Step 1: Outline the Bed Shape and Size
Use a hose, rope, or flour to mark the outline of your bed. For beginners, a basic 4×8′ or 4×10′ rectangular shape is easiest. But feel free to get creative with curves, rounds, or unique shapes.
Remove any existing vegetation inside the outlined area. Dig out unwanted grass or use herbicide weeks prior to allow it to die.
Step 2: Remove the Turf Layer
Lay down a tarp next to your bed area. Starting at one end, use the spade to cut the grass and soil into strips, rolling them onto the tarp as you go. Dig down about 4-6 inches to get all the turf roots up.
Discard removed sod or compost it in a separate area. Don’t put fresh sod back into the new bed.
Step 3: Loosen and Dig the Remaining Soil
Next, loosen the underlying soil with your shovel, digging down about 8-12 inches. Break up any large clumps and pick out surface stones, roots, or debris as you go.
Move the freshly dug soil to a holding area, such as wheelbarrows, buckets, or tarps. Don’t discard any of this original soil yet – you’ll be adding it back.
Step 4: Add Compost, Manure, or Other Amendments
To enrich the soil, add 2-3 inches of compost, manure, peat moss, or other amendments. Choose amendments to fit your soil’s needs – clay soil benefits from compost, while sandy soils need peat to retain moisture.
Mix amendments into the loosened soil in the bottom of the bed. Break up and distribute any clumps fully.
Step 5: Return Soil to Bed
Add the original soil back into the bed on top of the amendments. Pick out any rocks, roots, or debris as you go. Stack soil above the bed edges to allow for settling.
Mix in a second layer of amendments like compost or peat moss as you return the soil. Blend amendments thoroughly as you build layers.
Step 6: Level and Shape the Bed
Use a rake to shape and smooth your bed. Sculpt any slopes or contouring as you level. Aim for a relatively flat, evenly shaped bed.
You want loose, fluffy soil about 12 inches deep throughout the bed. Add extra compost or soil from another area if needed.
Step 7: Edge Around the Bed perimeter
Edge around the bed to define it. Use bricks, rocks, or wood – or dig a trench about 6 inches deep and 3 inches wide. This keeps surrounding grass or weeds from encroaching.
For a more finished look, use plastic, metal, or concrete landscape edging. Install edging materials according to product instructions.
Step 8: Water Thoroughly to Settle Soil
Give your newly dug bed a good watering to settle the soil. This will compact it slightly and eliminate air pockets. Add more soil if needed after watering to fill any dips.
Aim for moist but not soaked soil. Excess watering can damage soil structure.
Step 9: Add Mulch on Top
Spread 2-4 inches of organic mulch like shredded bark or straw atop the bed. Mulching conserves moisture, inhibits weeds, and contributes organic matter as it decomposes.
Leave a small ring of bare soil around plant bases if direct seeding. For transplants, simply part the mulch to plant through it.
Step 10: Start Planting!
Your DIY raised bed is now ready for planting flowers, vegetables, or herbs. Focus on loosening root balls and spreading roots as you place transplants. Water again after planting.
Adding a trellis, cages, or other supports at planting time makes future care easier. Enjoy the fruits of your digging labor!
Tips for Easier Digging
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Loosen soil before digging by watering area thoroughly the day before.
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Wear gloves to protect your hands and invest in quality tools.
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Take breaks and stretch often to prevent sore muscles.
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Cover bare soil with tarps or mulch at end of day to retain moisture.
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Dig over multiple days instead of tackling it all at once.
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Enlist a friend – digging is much more enjoyable with helpers.
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Contract out removal of stubborn grass or overgrown vegetation.
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Hire rototilling if the area is very rocky, compacted, or overgrown.
Maintaining Your Newly Dug Garden Bed
Here are some tips for keeping your hand-dug garden bed in tip-top shape:
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Replenish compost or organic matter each spring and fall.
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Use crop rotation to prevent pest and disease buildup.
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Add balanced organic fertilizer mid-season for heavy feeders like tomatoes.
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Weed early and often to prevent roots from establishing.
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Irrigate plants 1-2 inches per week with drip irrigation or hoses.
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Protect soil structure by avoiding walking on beds when wet.
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Edge beds seasonally to keep surrounding grass or weeds out.
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Mulch beds annually, replacing mulch if it becomes thin.
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Test soil pH every 2-3 years and amend as needed.
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Loosen surface soil at end of season for better winter drainage.
Creative Ways to Upcycle Dug Soil
As you dig, you’ll end up with excess soil. Here are some great ways to put that soil to use instead of tossing it:
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Spread on lawn areas to level or top-dress.
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Use for potting containers and window boxes.
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Shape garden accents like raised mounds or berms.
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Fill in low spots or holes in the yard.
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Make pathways, garden trails, or stepping stones.
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Build an outdoor oven, fire pit, or DIY kiln.
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Start compost piles – add yard waste over time.
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Create unique garden features like labyrinths.
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Plant cover crops to boost soil nutrition.
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Donate to community gardens or urban farms.
FAQs About Digging New Garden Beds
If you’re new to digging garden beds, chances are you have some questions. Here are answers to some of the most common queries:
How deep should a raised bed be?
For most plants, aim for between 8-12 inches of soil depth in your raised bed. Very deep roots may need 18-24 inches.
Should I line the bottom of my raised bed?
Lining the bottom with cardboard, landscape fabric, or weed barrier can inhibit weed growth but isn’t mandatory.
When is the best time to dig a new garden bed?
The ideal time is early spring, so beds can settle before planting. But fall digging also works – just amend and cover beds.
Can I just mix compost into my native soil?
Yes – but amended soil will drain and hold nutrients better. Replacing 3-5 inches of topsoil with compost is ideal.
Should I use a tiller for prepping garden beds?
You can till initially to chop and loosen compacted soils. But finish shaping beds by hand to prevent compaction.
Achieve Gardening Success with Hand-Dug Beds
There’s nothing quite like growing your own flowers, fruits, and vegetables in the rich, fertile soil of a brand new hand-dug garden bed. The effort of manual digging will be rewarded with abundant harvests for years to come. Follow this simple process, enlist help from friends, and soon you’ll have the garden of your dreams!